Type: Trad, 290 ft (88 m), 2 pitches
FA: Danny Meyers, Mike Ward 1991
Page Views: 5,375 total · 26/month
Shared By: Todd Ritter on Aug 28, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Once you've done this route you can see it while keeping the cooler company back at the Ice Box Canyon Parking Area. A very distinctive black streak comprises the crux second pitch. A lot of hiking for this one route, but a great way to round out the day if you're already in the canyon.

Scramble out of the wash to a prominent blonde pedestal of soft rock piled against the Refrigerator Wall. You'll see the bolts of Kisses Don't Lie around to the left of Breakaway while hiking in the wash.

The first pitch leaves the top of the pedestal past four bolts on some brown varnish. Every hard (5.8) move has a bolt where you need it. Near the top of the first pitch it slabs out. Set up a gear belay (#1, 1.25, and 3 friend) in some cracks near the top of the slab. You'll belay off some footholds, but still on the slab.

From the first belay, move up and left toward the first bolt and the beggining of the black streak. A blue alien and #2 wallnut protect some 10a moves up to the first bolt. Charge through the first two bolts on steep rock (crux, 10c). The wall above looks to be about 11d. You'll be thinking about those RP's you left at the base, but not to worry. The holds next to the thin seam are always good, the bolts (a total of eleven on this pitch) are close enough, and the position is fantastic. After the last bolt, there is a bit of a run-out on easier climbing, I plugged in a #2 friend before clipping the anchors.

You'll need two ropes for the rappels.

Protection

A very light rack; med. stoppers, #1, 1.25, and 3 friend for belay. 2nd P; Blue Alien, #2 wallnut to 1st bolt, #2 friend after last bolt.

Photos