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Routes in Refrigerator Wall

Amazing Grace T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Breakaway T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Earth Juice T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Grape Nuts S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Greased Lightning T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Kisses Don't Lie T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
La Cierta Edad T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pork Soda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Rock Canyon Wilderness Memorial Route, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Swing Shift T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unfinished Symphony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Weenie Juice T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ross Harwick, Joe Herbst, Andre Langenbach '78
Page Views: 1,495 total · 11/month
Shared By: beny on Feb 21, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Unfinished Symphony is a great line for an offwidth enthusiast. And even for someone wanting to practice the wide stuff, this is a good line: the cracks are featured and protect well. Pitches 1/2 and 3/4 link easily with 60m cords.

P1: Start on blocky, broken rock beneath the open book feature. Climb up on varied rock, passing ledges to a ledge with slings left of the crack. 5.9, 90 ft.

P2: Step back right to the corner and climb up to a low angled ramp below a steeper wide crack. Belay here. 5.8, 70 ft.

P3: Climb up the wide crack above, passing a roof and ending at a small ledge with two bolts. Great pitch. 5.8, 80 ft.

P4: The fun continues up a squeeze chimney/wide crack with good holds to get to low angled rock beneath a wide roof crack. Sling belay. 5.8, 90 ft.

P5: The good stuff. Climb up to the steepish crack and struggle out the slightly flaring wide crack. It narrows back to hands after 20 feet of wideness. Continue up the corner on looser rock to a chockstone anchor. 5.11c, 120 ft.

Descent: Rap from the top of P5 to the top of P3 (full 60m). Rap from top of P3 to top of P1 (150 ft). Rap 90 ft to the ground.

Notes: The first two pitches are duds, but the upper pitches make up for it. It is possible to climb from the ground to the midpoint of P3 with a 60 m cord. This puts you at a good stance just below the obvious wide roof in the middle of P3. Natural belay off gear from anywhere around yellow met to 5 friend. The crux pitch as 3 bolts. They look less than inspiring and are more in the way than anything. You'll probably curse their installers numerous times as your back and knees scrape against them. They aren't at all needed. Also, the flaring nature of the crack allows for many sizes of cams to fit at the crux, depending on how deep you're willing to place. You probably wouldn't want to push any farther back than a 3 camalot.

Location [Suggest Change]

This is the open book on the right side of the Refrigerator Wall.

Protection [Suggest Change]

We took a set of cams from 1 camalot to 5 friend with doubles of 4 and 5 friend. Also, we took a yellow and red met tcu with 4 or 5 nuts. If i did it again, i wouldn't take the extra 4 and 5. They aren't necessary. However, if you're not a confident wide crack climber, you may want to add a 6 inch piece for the 5.8, 5.9 pitches. The anchors on this route are less than stellar. I get the feeling this route doesn't see a lot of traffic, so you may want to bring a few leaver biners and extra slingage.

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Jon O'Brien
Nevada
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
nice post, i always thought this route was o.b. for me but i think i'll try it now, thanks! Mar 20, 2011
Did this cool route last sat! However, the big surprise was When I weighted the last chockstone anchor, sand poured from behind it. I couldn't actually see the gigantic block move at all and it appears totally solid, but each time I weighted it the same thing happened. I was concerned enough at the time to downclimb a ways instead of use it..... It rained pretty hard about a week ago. thought it worth a post here as a FYI or to gather more opinions! Great route!! Feb 10, 2015
Rprops
North Las Vegas
Rprops   North Las Vegas
I chopped the 3 bolts on the crux. (2x 1/4" studs and 1 3/8" stud. All ugly and all in the way of the climbing) Apr 5, 2018

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