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Routes in The Milepost

Chocolate Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
French Flies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gettysburger, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scrambled Legs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd Swain & Patty Furbush 10/89
Page Views: 93 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 3, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climb faces north on the Milepost and gets some shade, at least in winter days. It offers good gear and fun moves, albeit a pain to build an anchor up top and get down from.

Go to the north face of the Milepost (right side, if viewing from the road) and scramble up a few rocks to find 2 easy crack systems on the back of this rock. The left-most of these is French Flies (5.7) & the right is Chocolate Snake (5.6).

Belay up top in a notch (body for a chock/anchor) or scramble over the cliff to the south side and scramble down to the bolt anchors above The Gettysburger and belay. Rap from the same anchors, or down-climb the north face. Retreat is a pain.

Protection

A few nuts and cams

Photos

Kelly Corbin  
 
There is a perfect crack for an anchor in the notch. It takes .75 to 4. No need to do a body anchor. Not sure of a north face down climb either, could possibly down climb the south face but it is fairly easy to get to the rap station on the east face. Dec 10, 2014
DaveGustafson
Palm Desert, CA
  5.7
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
  5.7
Good route. fun moves and protects well. Can knock out two routes quickly with the 5.6 next to it. I'd suggest calling dibs on leading this one first and let your partner climb the "easier" (sarcasm) 5.6. Rap anchors seemed a bit out of the way to consider using as a belay, take your time and be careful down climbing to them. Feb 20, 2010