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Routes in The Milepost

Chocolate Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
French Flies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gettysburger, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scrambled Legs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Kevin Sesler & Tom Atherton, February 1989
Page Views: 76 total · 0/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is on the right side of The Milepost's southeast face and offers sustained, technical climbing right off the road.

Scramble up ledges to reach the start of the climb which is across a 10' deep chasm. Stem across, clip a bashie and then pull into a lieback/undercling to clip a bolt. Move up past a large, semi-solid blob of rock, clip the second bolt (1/4") and make delicate stemming moves to mantle awkwardly onto the blob (crux). Shorter climbers may find this section to be even harder as they strain for a distant edge under the last bolt. Once established at the last bolt traverse right (hint - stay low) to gain the base of a steep, featured crack which is followed to the top. It's possible to climb straight up past the last bolt and join the crack higher, where it jogs slightly left. Done this way it's a little spicier (but safe) and seems more like 5.11a.

This route packs a lot of good climbing into a small package and it's steeper than appearances might suggest, which earns it two stars out of five.

Protection

"fixed" bashie, 3 bolts (3/8", 1/4"), pro to 1", bolted anchor/rap

Photos

Murf  
Going straight up is pretty hard, as Chris mentions, is likely safe but feels a bit dicey. Nov 8, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
If you liked the crux hold of this climb traversing right after the last bolt... it is now lying on the ground at the base. Coincidentally, if you are wondering of those old bolts will hold a lead-fall, the answer is yes.

This climb ruined my perfect streak at J-tree (300+ routes and counting at the time of the fall) and I took a short fall onto it. Remarkably, although much of the flake/rock shed, I don't think that the overall rating of the climb has changed. The resulting crux is different, but not harder, as a new hold appeared. Jan 9, 2006