Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Ellsmere Island

Able Was I Ere I Saw Ellesmere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Aftermath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arms Are For Hugging S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Baby Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Baby On Board TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baby Roof T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Do the Math TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Smear or Land T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Foreign Legion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fright Night T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gail Winds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Geometry T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Overs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Made in the Shade T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Math T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Pete Charkin, Alan Roberts, Bruce Howatt and Shane Swain 1985
Page Views: 588 total, 4/month
Shared By: Murf on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Immediately left of the Houdini Arete/Great Escape is this thin crack. Rated .10d in the Vogel guide, it is easier than it looks. Not worth travelling for, but a worthy tick.

Protection

Small nuts and cams for the route. Hand and hand+ for the anchor.

Photos

Richard Shore
  5.10c/d
Richard Shore  
  5.10c/d
A short but demanding lead. Most work I've done for 30' of climbing in awhile. I'd say 5.10+ is fair for the onsight leader. The upper bit can be done in two different ways - crimp all out, campus-style on the left side of the crack, or delicately walk up the offset edge while grabbing the arĂȘte out right. Jan 7, 2013
C Miller
CA
  5.10b
C Miller   CA  
  5.10b
A good climb for the area but it's a bit on the short side. Nothing smaller than a #1 (WC) Rock should be needed. Apr 3, 2006
Graham Roff
  5.10c
Graham Roff  
  5.10c
Pretty cool climb if you are in the area. Protection is tricky, be sure to bring a set of micro nuts and a cool head. While not 10d as in the original guide, I'd say pretty solid 10c. Apr 3, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10c
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10c
Another route in this region that was unusual for Joshua Tree in that in that it was originally a bit overrated and overstarred at 5.10d with 4 of 5 stars. Mar 13, 2006
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
  5.10c
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
  5.10c
I thought the crux was not at the thin crack at the bottom, but higher up where you can actually get your fingers in. The feet go away and I had to do a balancy sidepull/step across that seemed harder than 10b. Ballnuts or RP's recommended for the 1/4" section of crack about 15-20 feet up. Mar 11, 2006