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Routes in Ellsmere Island

Able Was I Ere I Saw Ellesmere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Aftermath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arms Are For Hugging S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Baby Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Baby On Board TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baby Roof T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Do the Math TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Smear or Land T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Foreign Legion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fright Night T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gail Winds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Geometry T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Left Overs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Made in the Shade T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Math T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Pete Charkin, Alan Roberts, Bruce Howatt and Shane Swain 1985
Page Views: 638 total · 4/month
Shared By: Murf on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Immediately left of the Houdini Arete/Great Escape is this thin crack. Rated .10d in the Vogel guide, it is easier than it looks. Not worth travelling for, but a worthy tick.


Small nuts and cams for the route. Hand and hand+ for the anchor.


Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
I thought the crux was not at the thin crack at the bottom, but higher up where you can actually get your fingers in. The feet go away and I had to do a balancy sidepull/step across that seemed harder than 10b. Ballnuts or RP's recommended for the 1/4" section of crack about 15-20 feet up. Mar 11, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

Adam Stackhouse    
Another route in this region that was unusual for Joshua Tree in that in that it was originally a bit overrated and overstarred at 5.10d with 4 of 5 stars. Mar 13, 2006
Graham Roff
Graham Roff  
Pretty cool climb if you are in the area. Protection is tricky, be sure to bring a set of micro nuts and a cool head. While not 10d as in the original guide, I'd say pretty solid 10c. Apr 3, 2006
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
A good climb for the area but it's a bit on the short side. Nothing smaller than a #1 (WC) Rock should be needed. Apr 3, 2006
Richard Shore
Richard Shore  
A short but demanding lead. Most work I've done for 30' of climbing in awhile. I'd say 5.10+ is fair for the onsight leader. The upper bit can be done in two different ways - crimp all out, campus-style on the left side of the crack, or delicately walk up the offset edge while grabbing the arĂȘte out right. Jan 7, 2013

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