Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Pete Charkin, Alan Roberts, Bruce Howatt and Shane Swain 1985
Page Views: 650 total · 4/month
Shared By: Murf on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Immediately left of the Houdini Arete/Great Escape is this thin crack. Rated .10d in the Vogel guide, it is easier than it looks. Not worth travelling for, but a worthy tick.

Protection

Small nuts and cams for the route. Hand and hand+ for the anchor.

Photos

outdooreric
Bishop, CA
  5.10c
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
  5.10c
I thought the crux was not at the thin crack at the bottom, but higher up where you can actually get your fingers in. The feet go away and I had to do a balancy sidepull/step across that seemed harder than 10b. Ballnuts or RP's recommended for the 1/4" section of crack about 15-20 feet up. Mar 11, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10c
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10c
Another route in this region that was unusual for Joshua Tree in that in that it was originally a bit overrated and overstarred at 5.10d with 4 of 5 stars. Mar 13, 2006
Graham Roff
  5.10c
Graham Roff  
  5.10c
Pretty cool climb if you are in the area. Protection is tricky, be sure to bring a set of micro nuts and a cool head. While not 10d as in the original guide, I'd say pretty solid 10c. Apr 3, 2006
C Miller
CA
  5.10b
C Miller   CA  
  5.10b
A good climb for the area but it's a bit on the short side. Nothing smaller than a #1 (WC) Rock should be needed. Apr 3, 2006
Richard Shore
  5.10c/d
Richard Shore  
  5.10c/d
A short but demanding lead. Most work I've done for 30' of climbing in awhile. I'd say 5.10+ is fair for the onsight leader. The upper bit can be done in two different ways - crimp all out, campus-style on the left side of the crack, or delicately walk up the offset edge while grabbing the arĂȘte out right. Jan 7, 2013