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Routes in Ellsmere Island

Able Was I Ere I Saw Ellesmere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Aftermath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arms Are For Hugging S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Baby Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Baby On Board TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baby Roof T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Do the Math TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Smear or Land T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Foreign Legion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fright Night T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gail Winds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Geometry T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Overs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Made in the Shade T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Math T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FA: Pete Charkin, Alan Roberts, Bruce Howatt 1985
Page Views: 1,069 total · 7/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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It is 30' right of Baby Roof, just left of an orange dihedral (Houdini Arete), and about 100 yards up from the desert floor. A great hand crack at the bottom with fun traversing with some exposure at the top. This is a great climb to practice hand crack technique, especially the first 25 feet.


Standard rack up to Camalot 3.5. Depending on your crack technique, you may want doubles of the hand size pieces for the bottom hand crack.


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Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
a favorite. wild, if into that. improbable moves with great exposure Apr 1, 2013
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
Bottom is very nice and turning the roof is "unique". My partner, who'd previously done this route many years ago, believes something has broken off just above the roof. Only place I can ever recall liebacking off both knees at once...and feeling like that was the best way to climb the sequence (my partner did the same thing, and I laughed until I got there). Not a mega classic, but worthwhile and one of the better in the area. Jan 14, 2007
Mike Hack  
I thought this was pretty fun - nice hand crack at the bottom, and a fun move getting into and around the roof (a crimp on the right edge of the roof makes it lots easier to get a left hand up and into a layback). Short but sweet. Apr 2, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

Adam Stackhouse    
Originally rated 5.10b con quatro estrellas. Mar 13, 2006
Josh Beck  
1/5 stars for me, almost a bomb. Not the greatest rock, not terribly sustained, lots of rope drag potential and (for me) not terribly interesting. I was disappointed w/ this one but not a total bomb either. Jan 6, 2005

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