Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Unknown, 1970's
Page Views: 2,508 total · 15/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Start above a cactus and climb a steep, juggy hand crack until it narrows to thin hands, then fingers and then finally dies out at a bolt. Clip the bolt and make some face moves using patina edges and smears to reach up and left to a short flared crack that leads to the summit.

Enjoy the view of the surrounding desert - Saddle Rocks, Headstone Rock, The Astro Domes, King Dome/Hall of Horrors and the Loose Lady Buttress are some of the formations visible from the summit of this formation, and then rap off the west face from anchors atop the route Planet Y. Two stars out of five.


The route Planet X takes a nice line up the south face of the eponymous pinnacle via a nice crack and it's typically the first route encountered when approaching the formation.


Gear to 2.5", bolt (3/8"), bolted rap anchor (3/8")


FA: Mark & Beverly Powell, c1966 [FA info:(c)2005 Randy Vogel] Feb 14, 2005
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Thanks for the FA info Randy. There used to be an old piton in the crack, but it's long gone. Feb 14, 2005
Vogel doesn't give this route any stars and I don't know why except its not 5.11 or harder. Just the fact this is the easiest way to the top of a perfect tower should give the route two stars. The climbing is nearly perfect albiet a little short, 60 ft. Should be four stars and a must for the 5.8 leader. Apr 28, 2005
EXCLUSIVE MountainProject.com INTERVEIW:

MP.com: "Oh that Vogel, slighting moderates again...."

VOGEL: "Darling, the 1992 guide is... so yesterday. I never look back."

MP.com: "Does this mean that you plan on making significant changes on 'Star' ratings in the new guides?"

VOGEL: "But of course! Its all new, different and exciting darling. It will blow you socks off...really."

MP.com: "That sounds great! I can't wait to see Vol. 1."

VOGEL: "You and about 200,000 other climbers, darling. Remember patience is a virtue and Rome wasn't published in a day."

MP.com: "Any highlights you would like to share with us?"

VOGEL: "Oh, you just won't take no for an answer. You push too hard, darling.... Here is a peek...."

MP.com: "Wow! I just wish the guys and gals out there on the Net could see this!"

VOGEL: "It will just have to be our little secret, won't it?"

Apr 29, 2005
Lloyd Morris
Perris Ca.
Lloyd Morris   Perris Ca.
Short,very fun 5.8 crack climb. Mar 7, 2006
I will note that the bolt/rap anchor may be well placed for topping out and rapping off Planet Y, it is very inconvenient for a belay anchor for this route (Planet X) -- it being way off left and down. Mar 7, 2006
Not my favorite climb. Tricky Anchor Nov 15, 2006
Nuts work better than cams...really. Dec 30, 2008
Pete eye
Fort Collins, CO
Pete eye   Fort Collins, CO
sling the horns for part of your anchor system. bring some cams to use too. Dec 21, 2009
Russ Walling
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
Fun and short. Bolt anchor on top is not that convenient for this route and either an extendo runner is needed, like a 20ft one, or sling some plates to TR. Good rock, good moves, shady in the afternoon. I'd go 2.386 stars if MP would let me. Oct 16, 2011
vincent L.
Redwood City
vincent L.   Redwood City
Once I lead this climb with the rope fed through my harness , but not tied at all . I was about to be lowered , and pull a Lynn Hill , but for whatever reason I stopped and checked my knot , and noticed there was none . Almost killed by complacency . Nov 7, 2011
Decent climb, great for an early tick out of Ryan Campground. Nov 17, 2012

I really agree with Abdullah - four stars, and a must for any 5.8 leader. Of the many I've climbed at Josh, this one sticks out in my memory. Jan 9, 2017