Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,509 total · 9/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Climb the heavily featured crack until it dies out, where a combination of sidepulls and grainy edges gains a bolt which protects a long move to a visibly flexing flake the size of a hardcover book...gingerly pull down and not out on the flake and make the final moves to the anchors.

A fun climb with some intricate movement that's easily toproped from the anchors if you don't feel like leading it. Worth doing if only to witness firsthand the amazing elasticity of the local quartz monzonite as evidenced by the fragile, flexing flake. One star out of five.


This route is on the west face and climbs a crack to face leading directly to the rappel anchors for the formation.


Gear to 3", bolt (5/16"), bolted anchor/rap (3/8")


FA: Mark Powell & Frank deSuassure. c1967 [FA info (c) 2005 by Randy Vogel] Feb 14, 2005
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Randy - Was the FA done with or without a bolt? It would be a fairly bold lead without one. Feb 14, 2005
Apparently, they climbed the route to near the top, then exited left? and up the arete (avoiding the crux section where the bolt is currently). So, the current route is really a direct finish. Feb 15, 2005
San Diego, CA
Taryn   San Diego, CA
I cannot figure out how this is a 5.10a. It seemed much easier. The start and crack are juggy, and the friction moves at the top were straight forward. Sep 24, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Good route, on par with Planet X in quality and definitely worth doing if in the area. Jan 4, 2009
Pete eye
Fort Collins, CO
Pete eye   Fort Collins, CO
5.7/8 climbing to the bolt, but the moves to and just over the bolt are 10a. Slightly easier by staying to the left at the bolt/crux(5.9) Dec 21, 2009
Russ Walling
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
Pretty straightforward start and good pro as needed to "almost" get to the bolt. Take something like a #4 RP or smallish to medium stopper to protect the "clipping" move to the bolt. Flexy hold seemed pretty solid and the moves are not that bad to get to the anchor. Pretty good since you are there already with a rap or TR ready to go after doing Planet X. Oct 16, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
I thought this was easier than Planet X. Dec 11, 2011