Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Incomplete on lead (Bubb, 1/1/05)
Page Views: 1,090 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Golden Eagle Closures Details

Description

I had payed little attention to the book when intending to climb 'Momma Spider.'

As such, I inadvertently ignored the defining feature of it, pulling the cave and roof of the cave directly in a first attempt at this. The rock was bordering on 'disgusting' where you could protect, but better where you could get some grip...The crux was getting up into the splits above the crap gear and crap rock with a 5 meter ledge fall below me (5.10, S). Difficulty is dependent upon leg length and flexibility- hands on one side, feet on the other, press and walk up, them match a foot to the hands... I backed off from this stem above the roof when I failed to find and alternative to a crumbling hold that was fearfully dangerous to haul my weight on to get out of the stem. Down climbing was it's own adventure...This right hand climb is a 5.10 TR begging for a bagging for now, I guess. Or just clean it before climbing it. I didn't bother to go back to it. No name, no certain grade, since I was too chicken to finish it. Ref: "Tastes Like Chicken"

Protection

Big cams in flares of bad rock. A ledge fall is unavoidable, but the pro keeps you from going further.

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