Tastes Like Chicken
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British X
| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 34.09375, -116.1613 |
| FA: | Incomplete on lead (Bubb, 1/1/05) |
| Page Views: | 1,364 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
I had payed little attention to the book when intending to climb 'Momma Spider.'
As such, I inadvertently ignored the defining feature of it, pulling the cave and roof of the cave directly in a first attempt at this. The rock was bordering on 'disgusting' where you could protect, but better where you could get some grip...The crux was getting up into the splits above the crap gear and crap rock with a 5 meter ledge fall below me (5.10, S). Difficulty is dependent upon leg length and flexibility- hands on one side, feet on the other, press and walk up, them match a foot to the hands... I backed off from this stem above the roof when I failed to find and alternative to a crumbling hold that was fearfully dangerous to haul my weight on to get out of the stem. Down climbing was it's own adventure...This right hand climb is a 5.10 TR begging for a bagging for now, I guess. Or just clean it before climbing it. I didn't bother to go back to it. No name, no certain grade, since I was too chicken to finish it. Ref: "Tastes Like Chicken"



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