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Routes in Jam or Slam Rock (SW Face)

Amionit TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cranking Skills or Hospital Bills T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Fire or Retire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Randy Vogel and Randy McDonald, 1979 Direct Finish: Chris Miller, 1999
Page Views: 1,371 total, 7/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

Hidden from view until almost at the base, this route on the southwest face is located in a sunny and sheltered spot which is perfect for those chilly days.

The climb is identified as a left-facing vertical corner which is jammed, liebacked and stemmed to a horizontal three-quarters of the way up. The original finish cut right in the horizontal but a newer bolted finish straightens out the line. A lot of variety is packed into this climb which makes it well worth a visit or two.

Protection

pro to 2", 2 bolts, anchors
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
same anchor bolt/hanger is still ancient rusty spinner scrap metal. possible to back up the other one good anchor bolt/hanger with medium cam and very long extension Jan 18, 2017
G Frisby
Orange, CA
G Frisby   Orange, CA
as of December 28, 2014 the two bolt anchor is, in my opinion, only a one bolt anchor. the second bolt/hangar is ancient, super rusty, and spins freely Dec 31, 2014
Charles I.
Boulder, CO
 
Charles I.   Boulder, CO
 
Ya heads up on the gear and just keep an eye out for the flares. Mar 30, 2009
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10c PG13
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10c PG13
Great climbing, worthy of all the stars in Randy's new book.

The gear is quite fiddly and strenuous to place, so definitely a heads up lead. There are good gear placements when needed, but the crack is often flaring so the are plenty of bad placements to be had as well.

Do the direct finish, but stay just right of the bolts. I got suckered left of the bolts and made it harder than need be. Apr 3, 2006