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Routes in Jam or Slam Rock (SW Face)

Amionit TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cranking Skills or Hospital Bills T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Fire or Retire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: Peter Hayes, 1991
Page Views: 121 total, 4/month
Shared By: C Miller on May 17, 2015
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This constantly evolving line tackles the face/arete just right of Fire or Retire and is still in the process of cleaning up, perhaps one reason it has never been bolted.

Location

Just right of Fire or Retire.

Protection

TR

Photos

To the right of Fire or Retire is a cranky route I put up in '91 called

"Amionit",.12b

The name is a question:

"Am I on it?"

Just below the crux it gets hard to see the feet, and this was the question I was asking my belayer as I probed blindly for a key left foot.

If you are out at this crag, and you are up for some really hard vertical face climbing, then try this route. It ascends the blobs and dark stone just right of the blunt arete seen in the photos to the climber's right. I'd give it a couple of stars, but...I'm sort of partial to it, right?

Ethics of the day dictated no rap bolting, and the flakes on the route were too fragile to hook, so we left it as a TR. If ethics have evolved, then I think it would be a proud lead with 3-4 bolts in it to make it safe...but that's for others to decide. The character of this climb is quite different from the other routes on this rock. Apr 18, 2015