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Fire or Retire

5.10c, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 44 votes
FA: Randy Vogel and Randy McDonald, 1979 Direct Finish: Chris Miller, 1999
California > Joshua Tree NP > Hidden Valley Area > Rdside Rocks > Rdside Rocks -… > Jam or Slam Rock > Jam or Slam Rock (SW…
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

The climb is identified as a left-facing vertical corner which is jammed, liebacked and stemmed to a horizontal three-quarters of the way up. The original finish cut right in the horizontal but a newer bolted finish straightens out the line.

 Lots of variety is packed into this climb which makes it well worth a visit or two.

Location

Hidden from view until almost at the base, this left-facing corner on the southwest face is located in a sunny and sheltered spot perfect for those cold windy days.

Protection

Gear to 2 inches, 2 bolts, bolted anchor (all 1/2" SS)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Swami belts and hip belay's circa 1986.<br> Dave Groth on the sharp end, Mark Wenzel clutching the string.
[Hide Photo] Swami belts and hip belay's circa 1986. Dave Groth on the sharp end, Mark Wenzel clutching the string.
Ryan onsighting Fire Or Retire with Joan. Jan 2017.
[Hide Photo] Ryan onsighting Fire Or Retire with Joan. Jan 2017.
Jessie Boas on Fire or Retire.
[Hide Photo] Jessie Boas on Fire or Retire.
A No Hands Rest at the Crux of "Fire or Retire".Photo By Jeff Laina.
[Hide Photo] A No Hands Rest at the Crux of "Fire or Retire".Photo By Jeff Laina.
"Fire or Retire".<br> Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] "Fire or Retire". Photo by Blitzo.
Tara working through the crux section.
[Hide Photo] Tara working through the crux section.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10c PG13
[Hide Comment] Great climbing, worthy of all the stars in Randy's new book.

The gear is quite fiddly and strenuous to place, so definitely a heads up lead. There are good gear placements when needed, but the crack is often flaring so the are plenty of bad placements to be had as well.

Do the direct finish, but stay just right of the bolts. I got suckered left of the bolts and made it harder than need be. Apr 3, 2006
Charles I.
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Ya heads up on the gear and just keep an eye out for the flares. Mar 30, 2009
Dimes
Joshua Tree, Ca.
[Hide Comment] The anchor and lead bolts are now 1/2” SS bolts with Rock colored SS hangers courtesy of the ASCA. Dec 22, 2017
Matt Hagny
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Dimes, I was back on the route today, and appreciate the new hardware!

As for the gear, there are plenty of great placements to be had every couple feet. Yes, there are crap placements too, so the leader needs to know what they're doing with small cams. Feb 19, 2019
Tradiban
951-527-7959
[Hide Comment] Gear is definitely funky, make sure it's good before you move on. Nov 27, 2020
Daniel Johnson
 
[Hide Comment] Don’t be dissuaded by the gear on this one. The gear is not any more fiddly than anything in Joshua Tree. Sure, you can place bad gear….but you can do that on Double Cross, too… Jan 15, 2024