Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Jam or Slam Rock (SW Face)

Amionit TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cranking Skills or Hospital Bills T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Fire or Retire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Unknown, '84
Page Views: 431 total, 3/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Nov 25, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route begins left of Fire Or Retire in thin discontinuous cracks. The left crack widens to a finger / hand crack and ends in a large depression. Unprotected 5.10 face climbing leads to a two bolt anchor / rappel station. Crux moves off the deck and at the top.

Protection

Very small TCU's (#00 - #1) or brass down low. Medium cams in the hand crack and a #3 TCU before the runout finish. Two bolt anchor on top.

Photos

mhagny
  5.10d R
mhagny  
  5.10d R
Really nice as a toprope. Would be a brazen lead -- it's about 18 ft above a nasty landing before you get gear, and you'd have to place it in a *very* tenuous stance. Definitely worth doing as a TR. Fun moves down low. Dec 7, 2017
C Miller
CA
  5.10d PG13
C Miller   CA  
  5.10d PG13
An alternative (and better protected) finish you can do is to cut right and top out via Fire or Retire. A small tricam is handy for the direct finish and although runout the hardest moves come not far above your gear. Dec 2, 2003