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Routes in Palmreader Wall

Madame Salami TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystic Teflon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Palmreader T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Cyndie Bransford and Tom Atherton, February 1990
Page Views: 576 total · 3/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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The patina face left of Palmreader is a gritty but fun climb that utilizes several black intrusions for holds along the way.

Certainly not as good as Palmreader but a quick tick if in the area and the rope is out.


3 bolts (5/16"), pro to 3" for anchors


toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
Did this climb in the FA, you climb up just left of the third bolt..put the left foot just under the good left's a cool. Improbable, and sort of twisted move...5.10+... It's cool. Nov 5, 2017
I agree with Tom - I placed a green alien to protect the initial reachy/exposed moves up to the first bolt. A cruxy move past that one led to easier smears up to the second bolt, followed soon after by a reachy clip out right to the third bolt. Repeated attempts to unlock a 5.10c sequence just left of the third bolt or directly past it stopped me each time. My final attempt left me cranking on miniscule crimps in the varnished rock attempting to high step to the next decent foothold. Feeling the crystals beginning to rip holes in my finger tips, I gave up, grabbed the draw, pulled up onto the better footholds, and finished off the route. None of the options I tried felt easier than 5.11a.

My second managed the upper section clean on TR, traversing below the third bolt to a series of features and smears leading up the lighter colored rock few feet out to the right. She felt that variation felt more in line with the 10c rating.

I see the lines drawn on the topos indicating the route moves up left of the third bolt, but I'm curious how others have climbed this route.

Fun, technical climbing, and one that I'll go back to for the redpoint if I'm back in the area. Apr 12, 2010
tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
Fun route. You can place some gear before starting and stepping off the approach boulder. The upper crux seemed hard to me (10d+) Dec 10, 2007
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Short with a few fun moves. A small nut was helpful before before reaching the first bolt, as I had to make 5.9+ move to reach the bolt. Like Chris said, A nice tick when combined with Palmreader. Apr 12, 2007

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