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Routes in Palmreader Wall

Madame Salami TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystic Teflon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Palmreader T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Les White and Don Thompson 1984
Page Views: 2,734 total, 15/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Jan 1, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Palmreader is the prominent 40' splitter in the middle of the face. Excellent quality. Wish it were 3 times as long!

Gear belay.

Descend to climber's right.

Protection

Light rack to 2".

alleyehave
San Diego, CA
  5.8
alleyehave   San Diego, CA
  5.8
If only this route was 40ft longer...I agree this route is a good first lead at 5.8...but keep in mind there is some hollow rock in the crack which is easily avoidable..the move out right was fun and committing Jan 11, 2015
attila  
Welcome to Hand Jam City! A bit harder than it looks. Protects well. Take #2 and #3 cams to build the anchor. Feb 11, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Good route; a little hard for the grade. Awesome move to exit! Jan 5, 2009
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.8
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.8
Would be a 5-star classic if twice as long, but still a nice tick. We had brutal winds the day we did it, and this was nice and sheltered. Apr 12, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.8
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.8
Nice, straight in jamming from fingers to hands to a crux exit leaving the crack for face holds out right. Did this as an onsight solo and was less than thrilled with the somewhat reachy and commiting move right, but the holds are big and positive. Would take excellent pro if you're leading, and would be a good route for the budding 5.8 leader. Just wish it were longer. You can also access by scrambling in from the right from the "cove" of a few campsites if #66 is occupied and you don't want to wade straight through their site. Mar 30, 2007
Darren D.
  5.8
Darren D.  
  5.8
Straight forward jams to exit right. Hand and fist sized pieces work well for the anchor. Mar 28, 2007
C Miller
CA
  5.8
C Miller   CA  
  5.8
Enjoyable, but woefully short - even by Joshua Tree standards. Maybe a good warmup before heading to the Wonder Bluffs. Dec 13, 2006
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Two Stars, Too $hort, Too Bad! A fun crack. Sep 8, 2006
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.8
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.8
I'd give this three stars if it were twice as long ... protects well, and flat out fun!!! A must do when in the area... Nov 2, 2005
Steve Powell  
 
one of the best in Jtree. Mar 4, 2005
Kelly
 
Kelly  
 
Very nice. If only much longer ... but that's true of 99.9% of the routes here. Jun 28, 2003
Wholeheartedly agree with Josh. One of the highest quality cracks I have climbed at JT. It was a frustrating lead before learning crack technique. Now, it's just pure fun--a nice validation of proper technique. Jan 29, 2003
This is a really fun route and an excellent route for the fledgling crack leader. It's short and not too strenuous and offers excellent jams and protection. One of the nicest routes in Indian Cove, actually, in my opinion. Jan 4, 2003