Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lloyd's Rock

Borneo T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flawless Fissure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Friend Eater T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lizard Of Ahhs, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Micronesia T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Micronesia Direct TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
RR Does it Again TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Don Reid and Alan Roberts, January 1988
Page Views: 100 total, 1/month
Shared By: AJ on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This thin crack is around to the right of Friend Eater. Climb a very thin right slanting crack. Higher it widens to hands, etc. The crux involves either a long reach or ultra thin tips.

Protection

very thin to 2"

Photos

Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
bottom right-slanting crux protectable with thinner-than-tips gear. could actually sew it up, but prob wouldn't want to tinker for too long Nov 26, 2014
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
 
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
 
As the crack at the bottom (crux) of the route is too small to fit even my pinky into, good luck protecting this route. After looking at the pro "options" I top roped it after leading the Lizard of Ahhz to the left. The bottom portion, up to the plant -with stickers- growing about 20 feet up, gives the route the .10d rating; the upper portion is fairly easy and would protect well. Dec 28, 2011
#1 TCU or equivalent protect the bouldery crux moves off the deck. Be wary of pulling too hard (or standing) on any of the potato-chip flakes on the face alongside the crack. Dec 19, 2011