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Routes in Lloyd's Rock

Borneo T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flawless Fissure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Friend Eater T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lizard Of Ahhs, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Micronesia T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Micronesia Direct TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
RR Does it Again TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Don and Karen Wilson, April 1986
Page Views: 741 total, 4/month
Shared By: C Miller on Apr 10, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

Start as per Flawless Fissure then step right and climb a slanting crack up and right.

Perhaps not quite as good as Flawless Fissure but a fun climb and worth doing if at the crag.

Protection

pro to 3"

Photos

Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
Definitely more enjoyable then the Fissure, DONT MISS OUT! Great moves around the corner, top could be more sustained but the perfect hands is fantastic after the thin stuff. Had no issue with 'stuck gear' although someone overcammed a brand new BD X4 purple in the 'fissure', good luck getting it out, I gave up. Dec 14, 2015
tony grice  
 
Watch out for the spicy step around move in the beginning. Nov 13, 2006
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
After placing good piece just before easing round the corner - it seems compelling to march up the crack to a good rest spot and put your next piece in, but you may want to linger and put a piece in lower, just for the second so he/she doesn't have to climb a blank face if they come off the crux.

Now I know why it's called Friend Eater, got 2 cams stuck and needed finesse for the first and brute force for the second, thanks Mike Newheart. Mar 27, 2006
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Better than Flawless Fissure in my opinion. 1.5 stars out of 3. May 3, 2004