Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Perpetual Motion Wall

Cyclotron T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Georgia O'Keefe S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hoser T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Knack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knick T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lean Two T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Perpetual Motion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rain Dance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Archimedes Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soapy Tit Wank T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Hand Fist Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Brandt Allen & Larry Cote
Page Views: 893 total, 5/month
Shared By: Craig Clarence on Feb 8, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This slab climb is on a large leaning pillar on the north side of the Perpetual Motion complex of rocks. Go north through the corridor from Perpetual Motion (past Knick and Knack) and you will come out of the corridor at the base of this route.

The climb follows the right side of the piller, using a blunt arete for a lot of the moves. Fun climbing - we thought it deserved a star or two.

Protection

The 1992 guide says this route has 3 bolts, but when we climbed it (2/2003) it had 4 shiny new bolts. Good 2-bolt anchor with rap chains on top.

Photos

Adam Kimmerly
  5.6
Adam Kimmerly  
  5.6
I'm not sure how this route is getting any stars, nor how anyone thinks it's 10b. I guess if you avoided grabbing the arete (maybe 3' from the bolts) and tried to only use the smaller dishes to the left of the slab (away from the bolt line) it may get that difficult. But climbing the route that way is contrived. The natural line seems to go up the corner, following the path of least resistance. No disrespect intended, Brandt... Climbed that way, I felt the route was nowhere near 10b. Probably closer to 5.6... No stars from me. Feb 4, 2007
Thanks for the update on the FA routes Brandt. Noticed I have one of your JT route books on my shelf. Susan Dec 23, 2005
David Orr
  5.10b
David Orr  
  5.10b
I did this route this weekend and thought Brandt's comment about the route going up the middle of the pillar was about right. If you do this route using any of the holds on the arete, for either hands or feet, it is probably only 5.9. I did it both ways and it was pretty spicy starting at the very bottom (not off of the adjacent block) and staying left of the bolt line - true JTree friction.

As a side note this is a good route to do if it's too hot at the Star Wars area as it is north facing. Nov 21, 2005
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
  5.10b
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
  5.10b
No it isn't 10c, it's 10b. I originally thought it was 10a but with only three bolts I didn't want to see anyone get in trouble at the top, so I called it 10b. I climbed up the middle of the slab, not the right side. Apr 25, 2005
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
  5.10b
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
  5.10b
I had this pillar pointed out to me in the mid-eighties by a friend who said it looked like there would be a good 5.8 route on it. I came back years later and led it, placing three quarter-inch buttonheads. I wanted to place a fourth but was too wasted from drilling from bad stances. We rapped off an ugly wad of slings wrapped around boulders on top of the pillar. Some time later I went out and added the fourth bolt and anchor. A couple of years later I supplied the hardware and had a ringer go out and replace the quarter-inchers.Susan Mills! Long time, huh? Sorry, but I put up G.O. with my old friend Larry Cote. You never climbed it, at least not with me. Perhaps you're thinking of Rainmaker, the short crack nearby just off the road that we did. And we did other FA's together. Remember Margarita Crack in Indian Cove?Just wanted to set the story straight. Jan 12, 2004
Murf
  5.10b
Murf  
  5.10b
Clean rock, slightly spicy, well worth doing. Jan 12, 2004
The first ascent was lead by Brandt Allen and followed by me Susan Mills. The first ascent was in the early 1990s. I recall the climb it was my only first ascent. -Susan Mills Aug 11, 2003