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Routes in Perpetual Motion Wall

Cyclotron T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Georgia O'Keefe S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hoser T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Knack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knick T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lean Two T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Perpetual Motion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rain Dance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Archimedes Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soapy Tit Wank T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Hand Fist Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Nic Conway & Stuart Critchlow, 1993
Page Views: 2,471 total, 16/month
Shared By: Murf on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Directly below the start of Lean Two and Hoser is this route. A dike crosses the rock right to left. It's currently bolted with grey hangers which are possibly the only color which would stand out more than standard silver.

There is a unique move or two on this route that was intriguing. Give it a try if in the area.

Protection

Four bolts with grey anchors, smattering of hand size cams for anchor at the base of Hoser.

Photos

caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
that smurf is a grumpy bastard. Mar 3, 2010
Murf
 
Murf  
 
Looking through some old routes and found the above.... Must have been drinking decaf or something, I edited out the "eyesore". Jan 27, 2010
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
Adam;... You the MAN! I agree;...Soapy Tit Wank deserves a star;....if not for the climbing, a star for the cool route name. I love the climb, and I'm not just saying this because I did the first ascent;....it's got some cool slabby moves;...AND the 5.11a rating;....not MY rating;... we called the thing 5.10+.....(which means 5.10c/d;... your call.) Thanks Adam, for calling it straight. It aint' a dick-wrenching mega-classic, but good fun. Feb 15, 2007
Adam Kimmerly
  5.10b/c
Adam Kimmerly  
  5.10b/c
Ok, possibly aside from the colored hangars (they don't stand out that bad!), this route definitely does not deserve the bomb. It deserves a star, at least. It's much more interesting than Georgia O'Keefe right next door which has 1.5 stars at the moment (WTF!). The climbing on this traverse is more intesting than the usual monotonous smear, high-step, repeat of many JTree slabs.

But come on... 11a? No way. I've climbed slabs rated 10a in JTree that had harder moves. I think 10b/c may be a fair rating. Feb 4, 2007
C Miller   CA  
This sounds like "Soapy Tit Wank" FA: T. Gordon, N. Conway and S. Critchlow 1993 Jan 12, 2004