Big Moe
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British R
| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02451, -116.15802 |
| FA: | (TR) John Bachar, Mike Lechlinski, Mari Gingery, 1980. |
| Page Views: | 14,959 total · 53/month |
| Shared By: | Randy on Dec 31, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This excellent route is located on your right (south) as you walk into the Cove from the parking area. It takes a fairly direct line about 25 feet right of the large right-facing dihedral on the upper portion of the wall (Boulder Dash, 5.9*).
The climb name is "short" for big dynamo or "mo", the technique used by the first ascent party to solve the crux move down low. Though this move is now commonly done statically, shorter people often "pop" for the huge hand hold.
Great climbing from bottom to top on excellent rock.
Protection
If you chose to lead this route (you have to do the crux without pro); bring cams 1 to 2 inches for the two horizontals. Though given an "R" rating, it probably is best given an R/X rating as any fall at the crux would be very bad and if you landed wrong....
Most people top-rope this climb (2 bolt anchor on top). The route is rarely lead, but often free soloed.



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