Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Tom Beck & Robert Stavely-Parker, 1982
Page Views: 2,152 total · 11/month
Shared By: Gretchen on May 19, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Start on a pumpy flake moving on to a nice resting ledge. The top half of the climb is a scary move over the crux to the single bolt followed by a thin finger crack to the finish.


gear to 3", bolt


Crack Addict
San Diego, CA
Crack Addict   San Diego, CA
I backed off this route after placing my second cam in the flake. As I tugged on it loose grains were raining down from inside the flake. I didn't trust the placement so I backed off and set up a TR. Fun climb on TR. Apr 8, 2004
Pat W  
I've only done this one on TR, and the anchor can be a bit zooish. From the top, I set some bigger cams way back in the middle of the formation, something like BD 2-4 equalized with a couple cordalettes. You could probably set an anchor on the edge of the lip using two or more pieces in the #1 camalot size, but a directional would be nessecary to prevent a TR'd climber from swinging into blocks on the climber's left. Overall, a good and varied route, sustained despite the ledge in the middle. 5.10a/b jam or lieback down low and 5.10bish face climbing above. On lead, don't blow the upper face moves near the bolt as you'd probably deck on the ledge. I'd enjoy leading it next time around. Oct 5, 2007
Kris Spevak  
This is a really fun route, we put an anchor at the top just under the lip... no directional needed as you don't swing very hard toward the rocks on the left. Nov 19, 2007
Charles I.
Boulder, CO
Charles I.   Boulder, CO
My buddy ripped a # 4 out of the previously mentioned grainy rock while hanging after he botched the sequence at the bottom - yikes! If your leading I found it better to climb into the stance above the lieback (grainy)portion where you have many gear options available. Interesting climbing past the bolt puts you on top. The bolt above the ledge is pretty darn high I found. I had to climb up a ways to get it clipped - kinda spooky when your last piece is way below the ledge some 20'down. Once past the bolt climbing eases at very the top. Very exciting lead. Love great climbs like these that get NO stars in the book! Jan 14, 2008
Ripped a piece while dogging, freaked out by a high bolt and still down grading. Classic. May 10, 2009
Climbed this route for the first time last weekend (thanks for the recommendation Kris/Randy). It is quite good; maybe 3 of 5 stars. Pro seemed good in the flake (but a little strenuous to place). The thin diagonal seam above the bolt is harder than you expect -- you wouldn't want to blow the lieback moves. Oct 12, 2009
Matt Hagny
Matt Hagny  
The bottom part is super fun, and fairly easy, although a bit awkward to place pro initially. The top is scary indeed -- I had visions of shattering both ankles by falling onto the ledge. The moves past the bolt are thin, technical, and insecure, and you don't get gear for 8 - 10' past the bolt. Oct 27, 2016
Ice4life   US
Lead this and hung a few times, didn't dare fall down low on that flake... Very grainy, shit breaking off.

Bolt at crux is nice, the crux top half is deff commiting, but if you made it there, shouldn't be to much of an issue.

NO bolts at top for TR anchor, you need to go back and left 15-20 feet to a small .75-#1 or smaller green aliens crack, or bring big shit for the big crack at your feet at the top out. For TR, bring a static line to extend the TR. Dec 14, 2016