Ground Up or Shut Up (aka Poppycock) [Edit]

Nice line with a few stout pulls up high. Mar 1, 2009

Maybe the bolted line doesn't follow the original TR. The bottom is no harder than 10+, the top is .11. Great fun with good moves up high. Changes is more sustained than this one. Mar 22, 2009

On the TR FA, we started with the boulder problem start (V3 in the bouldering guide) to the right of the bolted line, then up easy face to finish up the bulge immediately left of the Boulderdash Corner. Very nice rock, two or three out of five stars. Mar 23, 2009

Curious why the Fa'ist didn't take the line up from the boulder problem? That seems like the true line. This line is safe as long as the 1st bolt on the headwall doesn't fail, then its adieu to thee my fair lady. Concerning for me because my short a$$ has to do a full on dyno to get onto it! Awesome climbing at the top tho! Mar 23, 2009

I don't know where the V3 problem is (probably right off the sand), but it isn't what is currently bolted. It is off a "mini-ramp" with a reach to a big shelf.

Rob, much like the coward I am, I put a cam in the upper horizontal just in case.
You have a good point regarding height, there are a few big reaches on this one.

On the upper section you move through the hole visible in the photo, with most of the climbing right of the drawn line. Mar 23, 2009

It is perhaps better that this route does not begin at the V3 boulder problem (which lies about 7-10 feet to the right). After all, who wants to see bolts on a boulder problem? And, the start to this route is fun even if it is not as hard.

Being average of height, I found the move past the 1st bolt on the uper headwall (4th bolt), to be very reachy -- and as such -- probably the most difficult.

Nearly 5.9+ in difficulty. Mar 23, 2009

Super fun route. Very safe too. I did the same as Murf, put a cam in the horizontal prior to clipping the 4th bolt and then down climbed to remove it. Although, I only took small ones and they weren't really great. Any of the following, #0.5-1.0 C4, would be more ideal on a runner. I would have known that if I read the description in the book.

As far as rating goes, I went with what is in the new Miramontes guide (11c) because I basically had to do a mini dyno to get to the big hold after the 4th bolt. FYI: I'm 5'7" with a +3" reach. Mar 4, 2013

Bringing a cam is optional. But if I were to bring one again, I'd bring a #1 (and a shoulder length sling) and place it behind the flake just left of the horizontal rest before the headwall. Jan 16, 2018