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Routes in Echo Cove - South Side

Big Moe T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bigger Moe TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boulder Dash T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bucket Brigade T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curly S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Death On The Nile T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deceptive Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ground Up or Shut Up (aka Poppycock) S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Larry (aka Out To Lunch) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Moe T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moetown T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ocean of Night (aka Out to Grunge) T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Undercover T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: (TR) Bob Gaines & Scott Cosgrove, January 1994, FL: Al Swanson
Page Views: 1,847 total, 17/month
Shared By: Darin Limvere on Feb 16, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A surprisingly cool route with good moves in the upper and lower sections. High crux on good rock. Very cool movement and a safe climb. Should get more traffic...

Location

Just left of Boulder Dash. Six obvious bolts will help identify the route.

Protection

6 draws, two bolts on top for toprope

Photos

Brian Chastain
  5.11c
Brian Chastain  
  5.11c
Super fun route. Very safe too. I did the same as Murf, put a cam in the horizontal prior to clipping the 4th bolt and then down climbed to remove it. Although, I only took small ones and they weren't really great. Any of the following, #0.5-1.0 C4, would be more ideal on a runner. I would have known that if I read the description in the book.

As far as rating goes, I went with what is in the new Miramontes guide (11c) because I basically had to do a mini dyno to get to the big hold after the 4th bolt. FYI: I'm 5'7" with a +3" reach. Mar 4, 2013
Randy
  5.11a/b
Randy  
  5.11a/b
It is perhaps better that this route does not begin at the V3 boulder problem (which lies about 7-10 feet to the right). After all, who wants to see bolts on a boulder problem? And, the start to this route is fun even if it is not as hard.

Being average of height, I found the move past the 1st bolt on the uper headwall (4th bolt), to be very reachy -- and as such -- probably the most difficult.

Nearly 5.9+ in difficulty. Mar 23, 2009
Murf
  5.11b
Murf  
  5.11b
I don't know where the V3 problem is (probably right off the sand), but it isn't what is currently bolted. It is off a "mini-ramp" with a reach to a big shelf.

Rob, much like the coward I am, I put a cam in the upper horizontal just in case.
You have a good point regarding height, there are a few big reaches on this one.

On the upper section you move through the hole visible in the photo, with most of the climbing right of the drawn line. Mar 23, 2009
RTM
RTM  
Curious why the Fa'ist didn't take the line up from the boulder problem? That seems like the true line. This line is safe as long as the 1st bolt on the headwall doesn't fail, then its adieu to thee my fair lady. Concerning for me because my short a$$ has to do a full on dyno to get onto it! Awesome climbing at the top tho! Mar 23, 2009
Bob Gaines
  5.11
Bob Gaines  
  5.11
On the TR FA, we started with the boulder problem start (V3 in the bouldering guide) to the right of the bolted line, then up easy face to finish up the bulge immediately left of the Boulderdash Corner. Very nice rock, two or three out of five stars. Mar 23, 2009
Murf
  5.11b
Murf  
  5.11b
Maybe the bolted line doesn't follow the original TR. The bottom is no harder than 10+, the top is .11. Great fun with good moves up high. Changes is more sustained than this one. Mar 22, 2009
Choncho  
Nice line with a few stout pulls up high. Mar 1, 2009