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Routes in Echo Cove - South Side

Big Moe T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bigger Moe TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boulder Dash T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bucket Brigade T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curly S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Death On The Nile T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deceptive Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ground Up or Shut Up (aka Poppycock) S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Larry (aka Out To Lunch) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Moe T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moetown T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ocean of Night (aka Out to Grunge) T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Undercover T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Howard Doyle, Herb Laeger, 2/77.
Page Views: 2,247 total, 12/month
Shared By: Randy on Dec 31, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

As you walk into Echo Cove from the parking lot, this climb lies on the steep dark face on your right. It is easily recognized by the large, brown, right-facing dihedral high on the rock.

The original (and best protected) line starts just left of Big Moe, then takes cracks/ramp up and left (5.7) to the base of the dihedral. The dihedral is fun laybacking and stemming (5.9) with good pro.

More direct (and difficult; 5.10 to 5.11) starts can be done to the left, though they are not well protected.

Protection

Small to 2.5 inch cams. The various direct starts do not have good pro, though some exists. The upper dihedral has excellent pro. Larger cams usefull for belay or to top-rope.
Fernando Cal
Long Beach, CA
 
Fernando Cal   Long Beach, CA
 
Fun climb with fun traverse up to the crack. Some pro but not much until you get to the crack. Crack eats gear, but too short in my opinion. Fun moves. Gear anchor on top with cord for TR. Place directional if planning to TR from ramp start. Nov 28, 2016
Ben Crowell
  5.8
Ben Crowell  
  5.8
If you do it on TR and start way over on the right end of the ramp, you probably aren't really protected while you're starting up the ramp. Nov 9, 2014
Ryan Avery  
 
I led this one from the 5.10 start and I thought the moves between the horizontals weren't that bad in the 5.8 range. Use some aliens to protect the horizontals and run it out a bit. Jan 23, 2005
Richard Adler
Bend, Oregon
Richard Adler   Bend, Oregon
Well, will wonders never cease. I actually agree with Locker. This is a wonderful lead. With several different starts!! The upper lieback section (where the money moves are) eats gear! And interesting mildly run out moves between the horizontals as well! Aug 12, 2004
jacob
  5.9
jacob  
  5.9
Its not a bad route, The best part of the climb is up at the top, where it becomes a lieback, or can up the crack a little ways and then can move onto the face..

Best if top roped, There is a single crack on the top that is used for the anchors, larger nuts,small tricams, and small to mid sized hexs work great... Aug 11, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
 
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
 
Good short climb. Easy lead in my book........... Jun 19, 2004
Fun climb. It's leadable but the top has only a single in line crack unless you have some long webbing or runners. If you do, there is also a large deep crack about 15 feet back from the face that will take huge gear.

The bottom portion of the climb is juggy with some reasonable places for small to midrange (1 1/2") gear and the top crack portion is excellent finger to thin hands. Jun 15, 2004