Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Tom Davis, January 1987
Page Views: 1,195 total · 6/month
Shared By: Mark J. Nelson on Jan 2, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

Fool's Gold is the first (leftmost) route on the Corridor Face proper. It follows a prominent trough past a single bolt into and into a double crack system.

The cruxes are down low, at ten and twenty feet. The first is pretty much unprotected, but with a reasonably clean fall if you're well spotted. The second is slightly above your first gear.

The double cracks don't take gear the way you might hope, so don't pass up all of the pockets on your way up the trough.

All in all, a committing, relatively sustained, fun route at its grade.

Protection

Standard rack through #3 Camalot.

Pro is adequate, but not abundant. Passing up any of the good placements will probably set you up for a groundfall.

Photos

The first crux protects with a #3 Camalot; although not perfect, it seemed sufficient for the short, low-to-the-ground crux. The Camalot didn't get in the way of the move either, like I thought at first glance. Make two moves, then clip the bolt. Doubtful ground-fall potential if your belayer belays OK, and if the gear comes out, it should slow you down at least. Dec 17, 2003
Donno
Newport Beach
5.9 R
Donno   Newport Beach
5.9 R
TR'd this and thought it thin & hard: 5.9. A #1 Camalot will fit in the flaring pocket at the first crux but likely won't hold. Mar 22, 2010
Aaron S
 
Aaron S  
 
The moves on this climb were surprisingly fun and it's not runout. The gear is a little tricky in spots but it protects well. I thought the crux move was pretty tough for 5.8. Feb 25, 2012
Sean Post
Laguna Beach, CA
Sean Post   Laguna Beach, CA
I protected the move to get up to the bolt by putting a brown Tricam in the obvious pocket, although I'm not sure it would be high up enough to really prevent a fall. Dec 3, 2018