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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Pinto Basin
> Jumbo Rock Area
> Jumbo Rock West
> Conan's Corridor
Fool's Gold
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R
Avg: 2 from 50
votes
Routes in Conan's Corridor
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Boulder Dice T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Boulderado (aka California Face) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Colorado Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fool's Gold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Green Hornet TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Left Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lichanvura Trivirgata T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Pictures at an Exhibition T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Right Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Song of the Siren T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Spiderman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tapeworm Direct T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Tapeworm Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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True Dice T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X |
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Winter Wine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 33.9952, -116.0682 |
| FA: | Tom Davis, January 1987 |
| Page Views: | 2,375 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Mark J. Nelson on Jan 2, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Fool's Gold is the first (leftmost) route on the Corridor Face proper. It follows a prominent trough past a single bolt into and into a double crack system.
The cruxes are down low, at ten and twenty feet. The first is pretty much unprotected, but with a reasonably clean fall if you're well spotted. The second is slightly above your first gear.
The double cracks don't take gear the way you might hope, so don't pass up all of the pockets on your way up the trough.
All in all, a committing, relatively sustained, fun route at its grade.
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