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Routes in Conan's Corridor

Boulder Dice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boulderado (aka California Face) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Colorado Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fool's Gold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Hornet TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lichanvura Trivirgata T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pictures at an Exhibition T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Song of the Siren T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Spiderman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tapeworm Direct T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tapeworm Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
True Dice T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Winter Wine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Tom Davis, January 1987
Page Views: 1,134 total · 6/month
Shared By: Mark J. Nelson on Jan 2, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Fool's Gold is the first (leftmost) route on the Corridor Face proper. It follows a prominent trough past a single bolt into and into a double crack system.

The cruxes are down low, at ten and twenty feet. The first is pretty much unprotected, but with a reasonably clean fall if you're well spotted. The second is slightly above your first gear.

The double cracks don't take gear the way you might hope, so don't pass up all of the pockets on your way up the trough.

All in all, a committing, relatively sustained, fun route at its grade.

Protection

Standard rack through #3 Camalot.

Pro is adequate, but not abundant. Passing up any of the good placements will probably set you up for a groundfall.

Photos

The first crux protects with a #3 Camalot; although not perfect, it seemed sufficient for the short, low-to-the-ground crux. The Camalot didn't get in the way of the move either, like I thought at first glance. Make two moves, then clip the bolt. Doubtful ground-fall potential if your belayer belays OK, and if the gear comes out, it should slow you down at least. Dec 17, 2003
Donno
Newport Beach
5.9 R
Donno   Newport Beach
5.9 R
TR'd this and thought it thin & hard: 5.9. A #1 Camalot will fit in the flaring pocket at the first crux but likely won't hold. Mar 22, 2010
Aaron S
 
Aaron S  
 
The moves on this climb were surprisingly fun and it's not runout. The gear is a little tricky in spots but it protects well. I thought the crux move was pretty tough for 5.8. Feb 25, 2012

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