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Routes in Conan's Corridor

Boulder Dice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boulderado (aka California Face) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Colorado Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fool's Gold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Hornet TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lichanvura Trivirgata T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pictures at an Exhibition T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Song of the Siren T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Spiderman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tapeworm Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tapeworm direct?? T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
True Dice T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Winter Wine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: John Long and John Bachar, September 1975
Page Views: 6,159 total, 34/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Oct 18, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is a burly 10a in my opinion. My climbing partner kept repeating "There is no way this is 10a" all the way up while following. On first glance, it appears that the route is essentially over once you pull through the overhanging section 25' off the ground. To my surprise, I found the rest of the route to be pretty sustained all-in-all.

Begin just left of Colorado Crack. An overhanging section lies 25' off the deck. Above here, the flared crack is somewhat difficult to protect. The last 15' or so before topping out is wide and awkward.

Anchor: slung block.

To descend, scramble off to the north (climber's right) as for Colorado Crack. This involves a move or two of downclimbing.

Protection

TCUs to 3" cams (double set).
Rich Welker
Riverside, CA
  5.10
Rich Welker   Riverside, CA
  5.10
Classic Josh sandbag. Fun! Oct 29, 2017
Jim H
Pasadena, CA
Jim H   Pasadena, CA
One large piece (5 or 6) for the top for sure, unless you want a runout on top where it gets off-widthy. It's not that long of a route that you can't carry an extra piece (this ain't alpinism). Dec 2, 2016
Tradiban  
 
Solid 10b, protects well with a c4 #4 and #5 at the top. Apr 17, 2014
Johnny Y
California
 
Johnny Y   California
 
Liked this more than Colorado Crack, would be a classic if it was in Yosemite. Pro could be tricky above the pod, but beyond that it protects well with 1-3" (4" near the top). The last section is just like what everybody says, so be prepared to crank a bit harder and lose a bit of skin. Mar 4, 2014
Nicole Yu
Los Angeles, California
 
Nicole Yu   Los Angeles, California
 
insecure jams, lots of stemming. O/W was fun. sustained and burly for sure. good pros tho. when I first toproped two weeks ago, I liked it so much and couldn't wait to come back to lead. so glad it went well. Spiderman was supposed to be my 2nd 10a lead but turned out to be my 1st 10b lead. super excited. Feb 10, 2014
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.10b
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.10b
This route is 10b, and continuous and somewhat insecure up high even at that grade. Gear-wise, you don't even need a #4 but you might feel a bit fuzzier with one. It goes just fine without tape gloves but my hands hurt more than usual afterward (but no blood!). Jan 27, 2014
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
  5.10
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
  5.10
Yeah... hate. However, it is a beautiful line and really just takes some technique. I brought a bunch of wider gear and found myself wishing I had more in the #0.4-#1 size instead. One #4 was the only bigger pro I thought necessary. Beautiful, long line with sustained, proper crack climbing. Really great but, yeah, a tad grity in places. Nov 11, 2013
Jamie Henrichsen
Lake Morena, CA
 
Jamie Henrichsen   Lake Morena, CA
 
Hated it. Juggy pulling down low to slopers to flared crack with insecure jams to finish off with some arm barring. Oct 27, 2013
Simon H
Oakland, CA
 
Simon H   Oakland, CA
 
Hard for sure, and a tad grainy. I brought a #5 and #6, the #5 was nice to have. Nov 5, 2012
will jimenez
joshua tree
  5.10a
will jimenez   joshua tree
  5.10a
A must do!! But don't be Fooled(sandbagged) Long You rock!! Bachar no words needed!! together priceless! Takes great gear, 4 at top if you want to pucker up leave the 4 on the ground... Be Safe have fun!!

JTREE fuunnn!! Mar 23, 2012
Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
I led this for the second time this past weekend. I remembered feeling sick after I topped out the first time. Same experience this time. I agree with the person above that nothing on this is much (if at all) harder than .10a,,, but see what you think when you get to the top. VERY, very good & memorable. My favorite in the corridor for sure!

Gear to BD #4 was totally comfortable, but anything less might result in the terror.

See if you can do it sans tape gloves without any blood!!! >:) Feb 20, 2012
Rafael Rovirosa
Salt Lake, UT
 
Rafael Rovirosa   Salt Lake, UT
 
Pretty good climb. I like Colorado crack better. The jams on this one were pretty insecure as the crack is flaring. Feb 15, 2012
bud miller
SAR site, Camp4
bud miller   SAR site, Camp4
Thought this was more classic than the Colorado crack. Deserves full stars. Hard, but pros up great. Feb 1, 2012
Alec LaLonde
  5.10
Alec LaLonde  
  5.10
Burly, strenuous, painful, and often insecure crack climbing from fingers to offwidth. A pretty hefty sandbag, this is at least .10b, and likely harder, even by JTree standards. Really, really good line though. May 29, 2011
Mulligan  
 
This is a great route that really requires a cool head if your largest piece is a #2 Camalot. Unfortunately I almost lost it when my foot got stuck 5 feet from the top and I was looking at 30' footer. Thank god for armbars. Feb 12, 2009
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10a
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10a
Followed this route recently. Glad I was wearing knickers and not shorts and it definitely gave me a run for the money. Looked (and after discussion confirmed) that it takes good pro which for some reason we thought it didn't. I'd do it again when in the area. Oct 9, 2006
Woody Stark
  5.10b
Woody Stark  
  5.10b
I was second on this today. Definitely 10B. Wear long pants or tape your left leg. Sep 24, 2005
Randy
  5.10b
Randy  
  5.10b
Great route, as good or better than Colorado Crack. Seemed like solid 10b to me. Protects very well with 1/2 to 1 inch cams, with wider stuff (2-3 inches) helpful for the top. Sep 19, 2005
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10b
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10b
Climbed this route again today (4/10/05)and remembered how strenuous it was, yet also how good a climb it was, it's got some great moves over the bulge and up the crack to the offwidth, I arrived there feeling quite fresh - 10 seconds (and a few feet up the offwidth) later I was utterly knackered! I'm not so sure about 5.10a, sure the hardest move is about that, but geez, how to grade this one...? E2 5b that's my take. Apr 10, 2005
Looked like the protection would be tricky at some key spots because of the flare to the crack. We slung the block to toprope it, note that you need lots of extension to do this.Some painful finger locks down low due to grainy rock before the crack opens to hands and wider.Great climb, though. I thought it was harder than Colorado Crack, my partner found them to be about the same.

Bryce Breslin Mar 13, 2005
Given the debate as to whether The Rubicon is 10b or 10c (not 10d) and Spiderman exacts a greater toll than The Rubicon, I'd give it 10b. Tom Painter Aug 13, 2003
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10b
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10b
Almost lost it on this one, right at the top, if my right foot hadn't accidentally slotted into a pocket I would have been off. Way strenno.

Spiderman is THE climb to do in the greater Jumbo Rocks area. Mar 19, 2003
RTM
  5.10a
RTM  
  5.10a
I went up there one summer afternoon, to beat the heat. Onsighted this thing on lead, it was hard, scaRy and long. Had to fight hard for that one. Rad climbing experience, rad climb! Feb 13, 2003