Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: John Bald, January 1974
Page Views: 833 total · 5/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

This poorly-protected and seldom done route begins just left of a large block leaning against the face (see photo) and climbs the path of least resistance into the crack which starts about 30' up. Falling is not an option at the start if leading this, but once in the crack enjoyable jamming leads to the top.

Location

This is the crack right of Colorado Crack which begins partway up the face.

Protection

Gear to 2.5"

Photos

Adam Stackhouse

  5.10a/b
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10a/b
Decent to good rock. Crux is in the face below, with a nice crack finish. TR'd Feb 4, 2006
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.10b R
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.10b R
I thought this was a great route, and absolutely worth the effort to TR if in the area. The bottom crux felt in the thin 10b range. It's a shame there isn't a single bolt to protect the bottom section. It would still be a bit runout, but vastly more encouraging to prospective leaders. Jan 27, 2014
Jeff Scofield
Yorba Linda, CA
  5.10b/c X
Jeff Scofield   Yorba Linda, CA
  5.10b/c X
I thought this was way harder than the Boulder Dice variaion that is 10B. I'd say it was just as hard as Song of the Siren which is 10C. Nov 6, 2017