All Locations > California > Joshua Tree Natio… > Sheep Pass Area > Hall of Horrors Area > King Dome > King Dome - East Face
Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
Routes in King Dome - East Face
|Arturo's Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Aztec Twostep T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Bottom of the Barrel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Cosmic Dance of Sheba T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Friction Impossible T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Key to the Kingdom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Magic Kingdome T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Mission Impossible T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Tiptoe To Topanga T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Trashman Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Watercloset, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|FA:||Bob Gaines and Charles Cole, January 1980|
|Page Views:||628 total, 4/month|
|Shared By:||C Miller on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThis unusual route climbs a steep improbable face that despite appearances goes at an easier rating that appearances might suggest. The first part of the climb is steeper on black intrusions and smears and is well protected. Higher the angle lessens and the climbing is more smearing past bolts set farther apart.
What makes this route unique is the start - the crux is a run and jump past the first bolt to a knob! Typically the start is done two ways - clip and go taking care not to slam back to the starting ledge. or clip the first bolt, aid up on it to the second bolt, clip it then lower down with the crux pre-protected.
A fun route that takes a nice direct line up an impressive face. With better rock it might be more of a classic but it's enjoyable as is. Don't confuse this route with a newer one to the right - Friction Impossible.
LocationStarts directly above the Trashman Roof, which can be used as an approach, although chimneying behind the stacked blocks at the base is the normal approach.
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