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Routes in King Dome - East Face

Arturo's Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Aztec Twostep T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bottom of the Barrel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cosmic Dance of Sheba T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Friction Impossible T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Key to the Kingdom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Magic Kingdome T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mission Impossible T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tiptoe To Topanga T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trashman Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Watercloset, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and Charles Cole, January 1980
Page Views: 628 total, 4/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This unusual route climbs a steep improbable face that despite appearances goes at an easier rating that appearances might suggest. The first part of the climb is steeper on black intrusions and smears and is well protected. Higher the angle lessens and the climbing is more smearing past bolts set farther apart.

What makes this route unique is the start - the crux is a run and jump past the first bolt to a knob! Typically the start is done two ways - clip and go taking care not to slam back to the starting ledge. or clip the first bolt, aid up on it to the second bolt, clip it then lower down with the crux pre-protected.

A fun route that takes a nice direct line up an impressive face. With better rock it might be more of a classic but it's enjoyable as is. Don't confuse this route with a newer one to the right - Friction Impossible.

Location

Starts directly above the Trashman Roof, which can be used as an approach, although chimneying behind the stacked blocks at the base is the normal approach.

Protection

6 bolts, 0.5" to 1" piece for horizontal, bolted anchor/rap (all bolts 3/8")

Photos

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Murf  
What an unlikely first set of moves! How do you rate something like this? An onsite is unlikely unless you can do a standing dunk. Overall I thought the route was really fun. I had a .5 Camalot which also worked well at the upper horizontal. Mar 5, 2012
Bob Gaines
  5.11b
Bob Gaines  
  5.11b
A one inch camming device (.75 camalot or equivalent) is very useful between the 5th and 6th bolt.

Hard to rate the run and leap up to the knob at the start, since it's not really a climbing move, but I'd rate it about J4 (on a J1 through J5 rating system, J5 being the toughest) since you don't get much of a running start due to lack of space. I was a sprinter/long jumper in high school, so I had an advantage on this one.

If you're not into leaping you can aid up to the second bolt to get established on the climb and go from there (still 5.11b, with A1). Feb 20, 2005