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Mission Impossible
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.2 from 5
votes
Routes in King Dome - East Face
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Arturo's Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Arturo's Special Direct Start TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Aztec Twostep T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bottom of the Barrel T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Cosmic Dance of Sheba T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Friction Impossible T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Key to the Kingdome T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Kingdom Come TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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La Copine TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Magic Kingdome T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Mayan Mamba T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Mission Impossible T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tiptoe Through the Tulips S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tiptoe to Topanga T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trashman Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V0 4 |
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Watercloset, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 34.00317, -116.14936 |
| FA: | Bob Gaines and Charles Cole, January 1980 |
| Page Views: | 1,890 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 31, 2004 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This unusual route climbs a steep improbable face that despite appearances goes at an easier rating that appearances might suggest. The first part of the climb is steeper on black intrusions and smears and is well protected. Higher the angle lessens and the climbing is more smearing past bolts set farther apart.
What makes this route unique is the start - the crux is a run and jump past the first bolt to a knob! Typically the start is done two ways - clip and go taking care not to slam back to the starting ledge. or clip the first bolt, aid up on it to the second bolt, clip it then lower down with the crux pre-protected.
A fun route that takes a nice direct line up an impressive face. With better rock it might be more of a classic but it's enjoyable as is. Don't confuse this route with a newer one to the right - Friction Impossible.
Location
Starts directly above the Trashman Roof, which can be used as an approach, although chimneying behind the stacked blocks at the base is the normal approach.
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