Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Bob Gaines and Charles Cole, January 1980
Page Views: 1,524 total · 7/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest

You & This Route

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This unusual route climbs a steep improbable face that despite appearances goes at an easier rating that appearances might suggest. The first part of the climb is steeper on black intrusions and smears and is well protected. Higher the angle lessens and the climbing is more smearing past bolts set farther apart.

What makes this route unique is the start - the crux is a run and jump past the first bolt to a knob! Typically the start is done two ways - clip and go taking care not to slam back to the starting ledge. or clip the first bolt, aid up on it to the second bolt, clip it then lower down with the crux pre-protected.

A fun route that takes a nice direct line up an impressive face. With better rock it might be more of a classic but it's enjoyable as is. Don't confuse this route with a newer one to the right - Friction Impossible.


Starts directly above the Trashman Roof, which can be used as an approach, although chimneying behind the stacked blocks at the base is the normal approach.


8 bolts, 0.5" to 1" piece for horizontal, bolted anchor/rap (all bolts 3/8")