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Routes in King Dome - East Face

Arturo's Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Aztec Twostep T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bottom of the Barrel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cosmic Dance of Sheba T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Friction Impossible T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Key to the Kingdom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Magic Kingdome T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mission Impossible T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tiptoe To Topanga T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trashman Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Watercloset, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Ian Carter, Todd Gordon, Mike Brown, Daryl Nakahira & Reggie Thomson, March 1979
Page Views: 1,313 total, 8/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Named for a popular mexican food restaurant in the town of Joshua Tree which closed in 2005.

A start in a chossy left-facing corner (pro to 2") leads up right to a low-angled ramp and a high first bolt. Climb past the bolt and continue up and left past two more bolts on near vertical patina edges/friction to a final bolt where the angle lessens and the climbing gets easier but you'll go about 15 feet to the bolted anchor/rap on top.

A good climb at a less popular area than many of the Hall Of Horror routes makes this worth the walk. Two stars out of five.

Location

Left side of the east face and just right of an prominent chimney that splits the face. Follow a trail through some bushes to the base of the wall and then cut back left via some scrambling to reach the base of this route.

Protection

4 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all bolts 3/8"), a couple of pieces (1.25" and 2") before first bolt
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Felt like the crux was the step up off the fourth bolt. Well bolted. Fun route. Nice rappel anchor. Jan 2, 2008
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Thanks Chris! It did feel pretty hard for "5.8"!! Dec 21, 2002
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
The route you did is called Cosmic Dance Of Sheba (5.10c). 4 bolts and no anchor. Climbs the brown face visible in the photo just under the letter "M". Dec 21, 2002
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
I thought I did this route the other day, but must have done something else, as the description doesn't match. The route I climbed was around the corner about 200' left of Trashman Roof. It has 4 new bolts, the first 3 are close together, and then 1 more closer to the top. There are no bolted anchors (walk-off to the left). The route is no more than 40' high. It felt like about 5.9 or so, maybe a little harder. Anyone know what this route might be? Dec 21, 2002