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Routes in King Dome - East Face

Arturo's Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Aztec Twostep T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bottom of the Barrel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cosmic Dance of Sheba T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Friction Impossible T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Key to the Kingdom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Magic Kingdome T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mission Impossible T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tiptoe To Topanga T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trashman Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Watercloset, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: (TR) Bob Gaines & Patty Kline, March 1998, FL: unknown
Page Views: 867 total, 5/month
Shared By: Steven Powers on Dec 21, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This climb is in between Arturo's Special (5.8) and Mission Impossible (5.11b). It's good 'ol dome home Josh friction bumps, gets sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon, was recently bolted by unknown suspects and is a great lead.


six bolts, two bolt anchor/rap (all you need is a rack of draws)


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Matt Carroll  
Great Route! Well worth doing. we really enjoyed this one Jan 4, 2017
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
i love this climb....i am really surprised that is isn't more popular. It really is a mega-cool route. Maybe someday it will get the respect and love that is so richly deserves. (good job, Jim Dover, on the lead....).. Dec 7, 2015
Jim Dover
Idyllwild, CA
Jim Dover   Idyllwild, CA
Led this today and have to say that it was a real attention getter. Placed a good .75 in shitty rock/crack--don't. The whole flake is so crunchy and hollow sounding--but it made me feel a little better getting to the first stance--which wasn't really that bad once committed to. Anyway, thought is was 10b/c until TR afterward--feels like 10a now. Still really fun and secure-ish feeling. Dec 7, 2015
Rolf Rybak   BC
I agree 10b/c. Slopers , good footwork required. Well bolted but still feels heady due to the insecure climbing on slabby holds. Dec 6, 2014
Found myself tending to the left of the bolts on occasion. Maybe I'm not tuned up on JT friction, but I thought this was more like 10b/c (much like Chris). Oct 5, 2009
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
A well-protected addition to the area that features continuous climbing for most of it's length. Pro to 1" might be desired to reach the first bolt. The rock quality is on the crunchy side, but more traffic will help to clean it up. One star out of five (maybe two stars if it cleans up more). Feb 19, 2005