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Routes in The Comic Strip - SW Face

Comic Book T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cruising for Burgers T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Frontal Lobotomy T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Full Frontal Nudity T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pacific Coast Highway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: R. Harrison, J. Long, D. Watson and R. Accomazzo, Dec. 1972
Page Views: 3,955 total, 21/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Jul 10, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


73 Opinions

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Description

This is the prominent climb on the prominent formation in the Comic Book area. A beautiful two-pitch crack running up wonderful white granite. Solid crack climbing skills needed.

P1) Climb a crack running up the wall (interesting 5.8) to a scoop/alcove where two bolt belay is found.

P2) This pitch starts with the crux of the climb. Some call it 10a. Crank your way up and over the upper lip of the scoop and into the continuing crack above. Enjoyable jamming leads to the top of the formation.

Descent: Scramble down off to the back and right through boulders.

Protection

Set of nuts, Small (TCU) to #3 Camalot.
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
the higher rap anchor for Full Frontal Nudity is visible from Comic Book P2 main crack, at about 80 ft above the P1 belay alcove (left photo). that's the rap with two joined 60m ropes that would return you straight down back to the base. P1 is approx 110 ft. if one continues up to top out on P2 (approx another 190 ft from belay alcove), scramble up to climber's left to go through a shorter boulder gap toward the back, to see the rap anchor at foot level atop Silver Lining, with the beads as mentioned by others (right photo). a double-strands rap with one 60 m rope would reach down past a broad ledge to the walkoff gully trail.
Oct 26, 2015
Cocanower
The High Country
Cocanower   The High Country
awkward start. one move of 10a on the second pitch. Feb 3, 2015
Cron
Barrington, NH
  5.10a
Cron   Barrington, NH
  5.10a
Rad climb overall. The hole belay is wicked neat. Anal beads still up top... Mar 26, 2014
Tradiban  
 
A little run in the start, a small c3 would have helped maybe. Definite crux out of the pod, lay it back and commit. I could find a rap anchor, we rapped of an anchor behind the climb to the NW, with anal beads attached to it, yes I said "anal beads". Dec 20, 2013
Bonesaw
CA
  5.10a/b
Bonesaw   CA
  5.10a/b
Great route! A little runout near the top of p1, but not too bad. Powerful crux to begin p2... such a cool move! Dec 9, 2011
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
  5.9+
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
  5.9+
Sounds like all the folks who dislike the route also disliked the blow to their ego. Old school 5.9 or 5.9+. Definitely a bouldery crux on pitch 2, but overall one of my faves in the park when you combine the variety of climbing and out there location. I'd say a solid two stars. Apr 9, 2008
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
The start of the second pitch was flared and greasy for me. Way unpleasant and way harder than 5.9. Not reccommended. Apr 7, 2008
keli
San Diego, CA
  5.10b
keli   San Diego, CA
  5.10b
First pitch is good, use your hip in the offwidth. Crux at start of second pitch...definitely harder than 5.9+. Not sure if its a reach thing...but the second pitch is a sandbagged struggle for 5 feet then a whole pitch of 5.5. Doesn't deserve all the stars. Nov 25, 2007
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
  5.10b
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
  5.10b
The first pitch can be done with small cams in the back of the OW. No big gear required. The crack also peters out after a while and turns into some face climbing; micro cams are needed to protect this section.

The second pitch crux felt as hard or harder than the moves at the top of Illusion Dweller. Two stars because of the first pitch quality. The second is nothing to write home about. Mar 24, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.10a
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.10a
There is a rap anchor up top to the left a bit that will put you on the ground with a double rope rap. Dec 2, 2006
Drederek
  5.10a
Drederek  
  5.10a
We liked this route last weekend. The start was intimidating but the purple camalot looked good. Its too bad the second pitch eases so quickly. We took quite a bit of time scrambling off to the right but got lots of good chimneying practice. Thanks again to the guys in green and black who made the upper part look so good from watergate rock. Apr 5, 2006
tony grice
  5.10
tony grice  
  5.10
Great route, short crux, Take a hike and try this one, Great intro multi-pitch 5.10. bring some big gear for first pitch. Mar 1, 2006
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.10a
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.10a
The location and purity of the line make this route worth doing in my opinion. Belaying in the hole is a cool experience. I was inspired to climb it after seeing Kauk and Gingery style up it in Long's THE ART OF LEADING. Nov 7, 2003
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
The first pitch is good but the second pitch has about ten feet of decent climbing (the crux) and then a long stretch of easy climbing to the top. Two stars out of five. Nov 6, 2003
Most definitely 10a. Great route. Oct 6, 2003
Flying T
  5.10a
Flying T  
  5.10a
With the horrible flaring offwidth start, I don't understand how the FA acually decided to climb this! I bitched and moaned for 10 minutes before committing, but I'm glad I did. The rest of the climb is great, but my 5'2" partner had lots of trouble on the crux.

Rather than top out and walk off, I opted to traverse left about 30' from the top on a horizontal to the rap chains of Full Frontal Nudity, which, on a 60-meter, took me to pitch one of this climb, then to the ground (well, close enough).

BTW, the comment on Full Frontal Nudity about the #4 Camalot applies here, too. Feb 10, 2003