Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: R. Harrison, J. Long, D. Watson and R. Accomazzo, Dec. 1972
Page Views: 4,353 total · 22/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Jul 10, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This is the prominent climb on the prominent formation in the Comic Book area. A beautiful two-pitch crack running up wonderful white granite. Solid crack climbing skills needed.

P1) Climb a crack running up the wall (interesting 5.8) to a scoop/alcove where two bolt belay is found.

P2) This pitch starts with the crux of the climb. Some call it 10a. Crank your way up and over the upper lip of the scoop and into the continuing crack above. Enjoyable jamming leads to the top of the formation.

Descent: Scramble down off to the back and right through boulders.


Set of nuts, Small (TCU) to #3 Camalot.
Flying T
Flying T  
With the horrible flaring offwidth start, I don't understand how the FA acually decided to climb this! I bitched and moaned for 10 minutes before committing, but I'm glad I did. The rest of the climb is great, but my 5'2" partner had lots of trouble on the crux.

Rather than top out and walk off, I opted to traverse left about 30' from the top on a horizontal to the rap chains of Full Frontal Nudity, which, on a 60-meter, took me to pitch one of this climb, then to the ground (well, close enough).

BTW, the comment on Full Frontal Nudity about the #4 Camalot applies here, too. Feb 10, 2003
Most definitely 10a. Great route. Oct 6, 2003
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
The first pitch is good but the second pitch has about ten feet of decent climbing (the crux) and then a long stretch of easy climbing to the top. Two stars out of five. Nov 6, 2003
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
The location and purity of the line make this route worth doing in my opinion. Belaying in the hole is a cool experience. I was inspired to climb it after seeing Kauk and Gingery style up it in Long's THE ART OF LEADING. Nov 7, 2003
tony grice
tony grice  
Great route, short crux, Take a hike and try this one, Great intro multi-pitch 5.10. bring some big gear for first pitch. Mar 1, 2006
Olympia, WA
Drederek   Olympia, WA
We liked this route last weekend. The start was intimidating but the purple camalot looked good. Its too bad the second pitch eases so quickly. We took quite a bit of time scrambling off to the right but got lots of good chimneying practice. Thanks again to the guys in green and black who made the upper part look so good from watergate rock. Apr 5, 2006
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
There is a rap anchor up top to the left a bit that will put you on the ground with a double rope rap. Dec 2, 2006
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
The first pitch can be done with small cams in the back of the OW. No big gear required. The crack also peters out after a while and turns into some face climbing; micro cams are needed to protect this section.

The second pitch crux felt as hard or harder than the moves at the top of Illusion Dweller. Two stars because of the first pitch quality. The second is nothing to write home about. Mar 24, 2007
San Diego, CA
keli   San Diego, CA
First pitch is good, use your hip in the offwidth. Crux at start of second pitch...definitely harder than 5.9+. Not sure if its a reach thing...but the second pitch is a sandbagged struggle for 5 feet then a whole pitch of 5.5. Doesn't deserve all the stars. Nov 25, 2007
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
The start of the second pitch was flared and greasy for me. Way unpleasant and way harder than 5.9. Not reccommended. Apr 7, 2008
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
Sounds like all the folks who dislike the route also disliked the blow to their ego. Old school 5.9 or 5.9+. Definitely a bouldery crux on pitch 2, but overall one of my faves in the park when you combine the variety of climbing and out there location. I'd say a solid two stars. Apr 9, 2008
Bonesaw   CA
Great route! A little runout near the top of p1, but not too bad. Powerful crux to begin p2... such a cool move! Dec 9, 2011
A little run in the start, a small c3 would have helped maybe. Definite crux out of the pod, lay it back and commit. I could find a rap anchor, we rapped of an anchor behind the climb to the NW, with anal beads attached to it, yes I said "anal beads". Dec 20, 2013
Kittery, ME
Cron   Kittery, ME
Rad climb overall. The hole belay is wicked neat. Anal beads still up top... Mar 26, 2014
The High Country
Cocanower   The High Country
awkward start. one move of 10a on the second pitch. Feb 3, 2015
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
the higher rap anchor for Full Frontal Nudity is visible from Comic Book P2 main crack, at about 80 ft above the P1 belay alcove (left photo). that's the rap with two joined 60m ropes that would return you straight down back to the base. P1 is approx 110 ft. if one continues up to top out on P2 (approx another 190 ft from belay alcove), scramble up to climber's left to go through a shorter boulder gap toward the back, to see the rap anchor at foot level atop Silver Lining, with the beads as mentioned by others (right photo). a double-strands rap with one 60 m rope would reach down past a broad ledge to the walkoff gully trail.
Oct 26, 2015
Matt Hagny  
The guy that I followed on P1 was very happy to have both a #5 and #6 down low; I don't see how you'd adequately protect with small cams as mentioned above.

P1 was great fun. We took turns trying to figure out the crux at the start of P2. Apparently involves a lieback to the right. We weren't willing to commit to it, however, because of the bad landing on the slab below. (Once committed to this move, you'd have to do another move or two to get a free hand to place another piece.). Didn't think it was worth the risk. Kudos to all those brave enough (or crazy enough) to do it. We rapped out, and moved on to other humbling experiences nearby! Apr 23, 2018
Matt Hagny  
Not the most ideal destination in colder weather--the belay is permanently shaded by the formation to the South, and the route only gets intermittent sun in the AM for the same reason. Dec 8, 2018