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> Comic Strip - SW Face
Cruising for Burgers
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Type: | Trad, 165 ft (50 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Mark Goldsmith & Robert Critchfield, 1983 |
Page Views: | 898 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | C Miller on Jan 13, 2013 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
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The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is a seldom done but worthy obscurity hiding in plain sight.
P1) Climb up to a solitary bolt, make difficult moves past it and then run it out to a bolted belay on a dike.
2) Head up the arete passing 3 more bolts then run it out past the last bolt to bolted anchors on a ledge.
- Although listed as a two-pitch route it's very easy to combine the two into one long pitch.
Descent
To descend there exists several options:
- Scramble up an awkward crack from the ledge with bolts to the top of the formation. From here downclimb/scramble to the west down a rocky gully and then circle around the toe of the formation back to your pack. This should take about 10-15 minutes if you hit it right.
- Rap the route from anchors after the second pitch (165') with two (2) ropes.
- Rap 85' from the top anchors down and right to the anchor atop the first pitch of Comic Book. From here a second 85' rap leads to the ground. This is the easiest way to go as it requires a single rope, but not advisable if other parties are climbing the Comic Book route.
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