Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Randy Vogel and Dave Evans, February 1976
Page Views: 3,199 total · 16/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 10, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Follow the marked trail out to the Comic Strip where you will find this climb. This formation will be facing away from you as approach, but it is easily identified as a massive formation which lies at the mouth of rocky canyon heading east (the left as you approach). It is also the next large formation encountered after passing the Mary Worth Buttress.

P1) Start on the most obvious crack splitting the face - this is the Comic Book route (5.9+)- and climb it past some wide sections to a dike. Traverse left 20' to a bolted belay on the dike.

P2) Climb sporty friction past three bolts from the belay, aiming for a crack which leads to a ledge.

To descend there exists several options - 1) From the ledge with bolts scramble up an awkward crack to the top of the formation. From here downclimb/scramble to the west down a rocky gully and then circle around the toe of the formation back to your pack. This should take about 10-15 minutes if you hit it right. 2) Rap the route from anchors after the second pitch (165')- with two (2) ropes. 3) Rap 85' from the top anchors down and right to the anchor atop the first pitch of Comic Book. From here a second 85' rap leads to the ground. This is the easiest way to go as it requires a single rope. Not advisable if other parties are climbing the Comic Book route.

This is a really fun two pitch route that is well worth doing when in the area. It's about as good as the Comic Book route and more interesting too, although it typically has fewer stars. Another great route name right up there with X-Rated Tits (5.9) which is over near Barker Dam.

Protection

3 bolts (3/8"), gear to 3 inches; all belays are bolted (3/8").

Photos

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10a
The total commitment required on Pitch 2 will leave you with a pounding headache! I remember this climb having a very big feel to it, suspended above the desert floor. Nowhere very hard, but quite sustained.

Number 4 Camalot on Pitch 1 helps.

Exposed position, delicate face technique. Jan 7, 2003
Randy
Lassitude 33
 
Randy   Lassitude 33
 
Just pulled out an old Monty Python video; the first episode? Full Frontal Nudity! It is still funny and inspired the route name. Nothing to do with X-Rated Tits (that's a whole other story.) Jan 16, 2003
On the FA I led the first pitch and placed the anchor bolts. Randy led the exciting second pitch and placed those bolts. May 15, 2003
D. Evans
Tustin, California
D. Evans   Tustin, California
Randy reminded me recently that I did place the last bolt on the second pitch. Nov 1, 2009
D. Evans
Tustin, California
D. Evans   Tustin, California
It turns out this was actually first done in Jan.-Feb./ 1976.

I do remember sitting on top by myself and being so stoked! Oct 1, 2015
Yeah randy still remember x rated tits Jan 6, 2019