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Full Frontal Nudity
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.6 from 7
votes
Routes in The Comic Strip - SW Face
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Comic Book T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cruising for Burgers T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Frontal Lobotomy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Full Frontal Nudity T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pacific Coast Highway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Randy Vogel and Dave Evans, February 1976 |
| Page Views: | 3,199 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Jul 10, 2002 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Description
Follow the marked trail out to the Comic Strip where you will find this climb. This formation will be facing away from you as approach, but it is easily identified as a massive formation which lies at the mouth of rocky canyon heading east (the left as you approach). It is also the next large formation encountered after passing the Mary Worth Buttress.
P1) Start on the most obvious crack splitting the face - this is the Comic Book route (5.9+)- and climb it past some wide sections to a dike. Traverse left 20' to a bolted belay on the dike.
P2) Climb sporty friction past three bolts from the belay, aiming for a crack which leads to a ledge.
To descend there exists several options - 1) From the ledge with bolts scramble up an awkward crack to the top of the formation. From here downclimb/scramble to the west down a rocky gully and then circle around the toe of the formation back to your pack. This should take about 10-15 minutes if you hit it right. 2) Rap the route from anchors after the second pitch (165')- with two (2) ropes. 3) Rap 85' from the top anchors down and right to the anchor atop the first pitch of Comic Book. From here a second 85' rap leads to the ground. This is the easiest way to go as it requires a single rope. Not advisable if other parties are climbing the Comic Book route.
This is a really fun two pitch route that is well worth doing when in the area. It's about as good as the Comic Book route and more interesting too, although it typically has fewer stars. Another great route name right up there with X-Rated Tits (5.9) which is over near Barker Dam.
P1) Start on the most obvious crack splitting the face - this is the Comic Book route (5.9+)- and climb it past some wide sections to a dike. Traverse left 20' to a bolted belay on the dike.
P2) Climb sporty friction past three bolts from the belay, aiming for a crack which leads to a ledge.
To descend there exists several options - 1) From the ledge with bolts scramble up an awkward crack to the top of the formation. From here downclimb/scramble to the west down a rocky gully and then circle around the toe of the formation back to your pack. This should take about 10-15 minutes if you hit it right. 2) Rap the route from anchors after the second pitch (165')- with two (2) ropes. 3) Rap 85' from the top anchors down and right to the anchor atop the first pitch of Comic Book. From here a second 85' rap leads to the ground. This is the easiest way to go as it requires a single rope. Not advisable if other parties are climbing the Comic Book route.
This is a really fun two pitch route that is well worth doing when in the area. It's about as good as the Comic Book route and more interesting too, although it typically has fewer stars. Another great route name right up there with X-Rated Tits (5.9) which is over near Barker Dam.
Big Bear Lake
Number 4 Camalot on Pitch 1 helps.
Exposed position, delicate face technique. Jan 7, 2003
Lassitude 33
Tustin, California
Tustin, California
I do remember sitting on top by myself and being so stoked! Oct 1, 2015