Full Frontal Nudity
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Type: | Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Randy Vogel and Dave Evans, February 1976 |
Page Views: | 6,121 total · 22/month |
Shared By: | C Miller on Jul 10, 2002 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is a really fun two pitch route that is well worth doing when in the area. It's easily as good as the Comic Book route and more interesting too, although it typically has fewer stars.
P1) Start on the most obvious crack splitting the face - this is the Comic Book route (5.9+)- and climb it past some wide sections to a dyke. Traverse left 20 feet to a bolted belay on the dyke.
P2) Climb sporty friction past three bolts from the belay, aiming for a crack which leads to a ledge.
- To descend there exists several options -
- From the ledge with bolts scramble up an awkward crack to the top of the formation. From here downclimb/scramble to the west down a rocky gully and then circle around the toe of the formation back to your pack. This should take about 10-15 minutes if you hit it right.
- Rap the route from anchors after the second pitch (165 feet/50 meters) - with two (2) ropes.
- Rap 85 feet/26 meters from the top anchors down and right to the anchor atop the first pitch of Comic Book. From here a second 85 foot/ 26 meter rap leads to the ground. - This is the easiest way to go as it requires a single rope, but it's not advisable if other parties are climbing the Comic Book route.
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