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Frontal Lobotomy
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.9 from 37
votes
Routes in The Comic Strip - SW Face
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Charlie Brown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Circus Act T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Comic Book T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cruising for Burgers T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Frontal Lobotomy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Full Frontal Nudity T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Invisible Man, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Pacific Coast Highway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Right On Top of Me T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 34.0131, -116.1433 |
| FA: | Matt Cox, Dave Evans. Spencer Lennard, Alan Lennard, January 18 1975 |
| Page Views: | 3,486 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Randy on Jan 17, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
A really great, steep crack climb, that seems more exposed and difficult that it really is (aren't we always looking for this kind of route?) Excellent protection. One of the first climbs done in the Comic Book area. The young Matt Cox, Dave Evans and Spencer Lennard were very active in climbers in the 70s, establishing many fine routes.
Pitch 1: The first pitch (5.9) is often neglected, but is actually quite good. Layback a wide crack (crux), which quickly becomes fingers; traverse left to a belay on a small ledge (you can scramble up from the left to this spot).
Pitch 2: Clip a bolt, and make a long reach into a finger crack-bomber layback (5.10a/b). Higher up, above a small roof, the crack widens and eases. Belay on a large ledge.
You can also lead this route in a single pitch, but unless you are careful (use runners), rope drag could be a problem.
Make a 100+ foot rap from a 2 bolt anchor. Alternatively, downclimb to the left (Class 4/5).
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