Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Matt Cox, Dave Evans. Spencer Lennard, Alan Lennard, January 18 1975
Page Views: 2,217 total · 11/month
Shared By: Randy on Jan 17, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

A really great, steep crack climb, that seems more exposed and difficult that it really is (aren't we always looking for this kind of route?) Excellent protection. One of the first climbs done in the Comic Book area. The young Matt Cox, Dave Evans and Spencer Lennard were very active in climbers in the 70s, establishing many fine routes.

Pitch 1: The first pitch (5.9) is often neglected, but is actually quite good. Layback a wide crack (crux), which quickly becomes fingers; traverse left to a belay on a small ledge (you can scramble up from the left to this spot).

Pitch 2: Clip a bolt, and make a long reach into a finger crack-bomber layback (5.10a/b). Higher up, above a small roof, the crack widens and eases. Belay on a large ledge.

You can also lead this route in a single pitch, but unless you are careful (use runners), rope drag could be a problem.

Make a 100+ foot rap from a 2 bolt anchor. Alternatively, downclimb to the left (Class 4/5).

Protection

A good variety of small nuts/cams to possibly 4 inches (to protect crux of 1st pitch).

Photos

Murf  
Great route, done it twice, always as 1 pitch from the offwidth start, rope drag is not an issue if you don't mind possible swings on the easy ground. Jan 20, 2003
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10b
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10b
I remember this climbs as being rather strenuous for me. Jan 24, 2003
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
We climbed it as one pitch, including the offwidth at the bottom. The offwidth is short but stout, and felt harder than the technical crux up higher, but YMMV. Bring a #4 or #4.5 camalot and you can safely protect the offwidth. I put double length slings on the last two pieces before the bolt, and a long sling on the bolt and the rope drag was fine.

After clipping the bolt, gently reeeeeeeeeeeaaach right (and dance your feet to the edge of the ledge!) and crank up the sweet crack above. Good pro (small TCUs after the bolt) lead all the way up to the roof and through the final, awkward 5.8 crack to the anchor. Expect some pump, particularly if the offwidth sapped any of your energy.

One 60m rope JUST makes the bottom from the anchor, so no need for doubles. This anchor is different than described above in the description, so I am guessing it is new anchor.

Double rack from thin to #3 camalot, include a #4 or #4.5 camalot (probably better) for the offwidth. Nov 25, 2008
RTM
  5.10a
RTM  
  5.10a
It never even crossed my mind to do this in two pitches, and the odd bolt is so far to the left it seemed off-route. Typical though, I find that alot of 2-pitch routes in Joshua Tree are easily done in 1 pitch. Aug 22, 2009
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
I found the gear through the crux section to be a little tricky. Maybe not tricky by Joshua Tree standards, but it's not Indian Creek style plug-n-go, and the stances you have to place from are quite strenuous. Offset size TCU's would have helped I think. Add to that the sort of awkward OW in the beginning and you have a very physical 5.10a with varied challenges. Awesome climb, but definitely not for leaders trying to break into the 5.10 grade. Nov 2, 2009
Richard Shore
  5.10b
Richard Shore  
  5.10b
My partner tried liebacking the wide section at the start, it didnt work out so well for him. Good fist jams exist deep in the wide section, and heel-toe cams make this bit less physical than it needs to be. The upper finger crack is a treat! Mar 26, 2012
D. Evans
Tustin, California
D. Evans   Tustin, California
FA 1/18/75. Oct 1, 2015
Matt Hagny
  5.10b R
Matt Hagny  
  5.10b R
Great fun! Agree that P1 should not be skipped.

The problem for the beginning of P2 (the start of the thin crack) is that it's extremely strenuous to place gear once into the lieback. And you really need the gear, lest you blow it and land on the slab below. It's insecure there for sure. Once again, I thought better of the risk and decided to TR the second pitch -- glad I did, because after climbing it I'm pretty convinced that I would've blown it and decked. And I'm fairly decent at liebacks. Anyway, it was super fun as a TR, and I'd do it again in heartbeat. But would lead P1 again while there, just because it's also great fun. Apr 23, 2018
Matt Hagny
  5.10b R
Matt Hagny  
  5.10b R
Shade until noon or very early afternoon. Apr 23, 2018
I remember this as kinda scary but fun Mar 27, 2019
Jon Hartmann
Ojai, CA
  5.10b
Jon Hartmann   Ojai, CA
  5.10b
@Matt Hagny. To be fair, if you didn’t place any gear then how do you know it was strenuous to place? I led it yesterday and I found plentiful gear and a solid stance to place from whenever I wanted it. I did it in 1 pitch and there were anchors at the top with rappel rings. The route felt exactly like a 10.b. Very enjoyable.
Beta alert: Another way to get into the crack if you can’t make the reach is to clip the bolt with a sling, down climb directly under the crack and start climbing it from the beginning. I thought doing it that way kept me squared up enough so placing gear was pretty easy. Mar 31, 2019
Matt Hagny
  5.10b R
Matt Hagny  
  5.10b R
@Jon: It was strenuous enough for me just to stay on it without cutting a hand loose to place gear! Maybe I had the beta all wrong thru that section (happens a lot), or am just weak. Kudos on the lead! Apr 7, 2019