Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tim Powell, Kevin Powell & Dan Ahlborn, April 1977
Page Views: 18,503 total · 86/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 14, 2001
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

275 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


What a classic line!

Approach Sports Challenge Rock on the southeast side and scamble down into the shaded "slot" on that side. Near the left end of the east face, and just left of an large pine tree, you'll see a prominent curving crack that starts about 20 feet off the ground and arcs upward to the top of the rock. A few scoops and seams lead up though steep terrain to this crack.

Boulder up scoops and seams up and left through a slight overhang, placing a few good nuts along the way. These will be #4-#8 BD Stoppers or eq size (if memory serves me); small TCU's may also work. The crux is body english and slopers. Reach a great jam some 25' up and start placing cams. The crack starts as a left-leaning feature, but arcs its way through the rock, eventually becoming a right-leaner. This great climb offers good face climbing as well as good jamming, from thin-hands to fists.

Tape up and enjoy a classic!


Small-to-medium nuts at the bottom, and medium cams up higher. Carry a full set of stoppers and cams from 1" to 3.5"

The protection at the bottom is adequate, but maybe difficult to place. An experienced 5.10 leader should be safe here, but a person at their limit will find it hard to place protection down there.
Awesome climb and one of the best! After the boulder problem start, the climbing is sustained in the 9+/10- range. I recall getting a good horizontal #3 camalot right after standing up at the 10 foot level. The climb is "S" only in the sense that the belayer needs to double as a spotter for the boulder problem/mantle at the start. Gear is bomber and straight-forward after that. Jul 3, 2002
I haven't done a ton of routes at Josh, but this was one of the two orthree best. Steep climbing on good holds.

I placed a solid #2 friend (#1 camalot equivalent) during the cruxface section at the start. Jul 4, 2002
Steven Powers
Steven Powers  
crux section is easier if you dont stop to place the pro, i recomend having a bolder pad or a good spotter and hold off on the pro till you get through the crux, there is an awsome stance a move or two after the crux, the crux isnt to far off the deck. Oct 27, 2003
On the FA, the final section of the route was finished right then up, rather than straight up as is commonly done now. A fixed pin was placed on FA in one of the lower horizontals (it came out many years ago). A 2-3" cam works just as well today.

Dec 2, 2003
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
This is an excellent route with a bouldery face crux that leads into a steep and somewhat strenuous crack that eats gear. The only potential drawback to this route is the busy location right off the loop trail. Four stars out of five. Feb 2, 2005
Kayte Knower  
Probably my favorite pitch of trad climbing to date. It doesn't look that tall from the ground, but it was plenty pumpy. I really had to commit to get through the bottom. Steep, clean as a whistle (or should I say jerk), and well protected. Even the little chimney is nice, like a granite recliner. Mar 27, 2007
Adam Stackhouse

Adam Stackhouse    
Including the weird, semi-protectable (for me) lower crux, this is more of a face climb in that there are abundant jug holds on either side of the crack. In a sense this can allow for too many choices, leading to a premature pump factor. Aug 26, 2007
Mike   Phoenix
After hearing some horror stories about sandbagging & runouts on this route, I was a bit intimidated at first. However, I found it neither sandbagged nor runout, and don't see what all the fuss was about. Actually, I thought Sphincter Quits (5.9+) around the corner was a scarier lead than Clean & Jerk. Nov 14, 2007
Very nice line, with fun, committing moves right off the deck. I found that one can get a #0 TCU in to protect the first big move. For me, this was necessary, as I whipped on it (more evidence that Metolius makes bomber gear). After that, the #1 camalot fits perfectly in a horizontal. If you're not used to overhung, gymastic starts, and/or are short, the beginning moves can feel quite hard (as they did for me). Overall, the 5.10+ rating is accurate. Dec 11, 2008
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
Can protect the start fine if one so chooses. Had fallen on that piece with fingertips less than a half inch short of the lip of that first Red Camalot slot on the onsight attempt a few years back. Took the longest possible crux fall and ended up with some air to spare. Had looked at the fall distances beforehand, very thoroughly. Attentive belaying helped. Finally got around to leading it again last weekend, and it went fine with same first pieces, with less noise than before. Sep 15, 2010
Alex Doria
San Diego
Alex Doria   San Diego
This is a test piece for the grade.. I totally agree with the comments below.. much easier if you don't stop and place pro through the crux at the start... but its heady off the deck... Nov 28, 2013
Hard start with pretty much nothing for feet for the first move. Will feel harder still if it's cold and your hands are numb. Easy to end up overgripping and getting a flash pump! Beta hint for start: the biggest holds are not necessarily the best ones to use.

First time I led this ~20 years ago, I climbed up and placed a cam. Then downclimbed and hopped back to the ground, warmed my hands up and then fired it. It was right at my limit.

After the hard start, it gets a lot easier through the middle of the route. Some awkward chimneying at the finish.

If the starting moves were further up on the route, I think it would get a 10+ rating. Nov 28, 2013
Phil Esra  
For my partner and me, the obvious crux was the dyno to the third rail off the deck. Wouldn't want to deal with gear before this move, but wouldn't want to take the fall either. The route is much easier (and quite fun) after that. Dec 9, 2014
I placed a solid .3 standing on a cheat stone at the start. No dynoing if you can lock off well. Feb 11, 2016
Riverside, CA
nathanael   Riverside, CA
Put in a yellow metolius from the cheater stone at the bottom and then the start is completely protected. Big lock-off to the 3rd horizontal and you can sew it up from there. Apr 17, 2016
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
For the avid boulder jock or sport junky the beginning face section feels at home, rare for josh! Not to worry though, since the rest of the route features nearly every (good) style of climbing at a manageable, though pumpy, 9+ range. GET ON IT! Nov 29, 2016
Matt Hagny
Matt Hagny  
I'd say the crack portion is a sustained 10a, until you get past the overhanging part -- then it resumes again for the last bit. Combined with the face moves at the start, it's very burly and pumpy unless you're a solid 5.11 trad climber (which I'm not).

Super fun! 5 stars out of 4. Easy to set up a TR for us weaker folks (I did try to lead it first). I can't believe I've been climbing in the park for 6 yrs and hadn't got on this thing till now! Oct 24, 2018
Matt Hagny
Matt Hagny  
If you aren't into the deadpoint move to the 3rd rail, there's a completely static way to get the job done -- by moving from the second rail off to the right, to a pinch/sidepull. Good footwork required, but far easier for me than the deadpoint, and for another member of my party. From that pinch, rearrange your feet and go up statically to the far RH end of the 3d rail, which is considerably closer from this position. Oct 24, 2018
master gumby  
I am not tall (5'9") and didn't need to dyno. Also the awkward chimney or whatever that thing at the top was not nearly as fun as the rest of the climb - which was awesome. If you like powerful moves on jugs with crack climbing mixed in get on this rig.

Tape not necessary. Dec 10, 2018