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Routes in Sports Challenge Rock - East Face

Blue Jean Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Championship Wrestling T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clean and Jerk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cool But Not Too Concerned TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cool but Concerned T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Disco Decoy T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hang and Swing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Leave it to Beaver (aka The Beaver) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lobster, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Dan Ahlborn and Kevin Powell, January 1977
Page Views: 4,348 total, 23/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 3, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This striking climb is easily identified as the wide crack which splits the formation into two distinct (upper and lower) halves. It starts as a hand crack but quickly widens to give good wide crack practice...do it 3 or 4 times in a row after leading to simulate longer Valley routes...The rock is quite good and although short the climb is memorable.

Protection

This is a hand to offwidth crack, so rack accordingly. If needed a large cam can be walked part of the way before it widens into mega-cam/Big Bro size.
BigRed11    
 
Move through the crux quickly at the bottom and then it's a marathon of grunting to the top. Squeeze finish runs it out for 10 or 15 feet above a number 6 Mar 30, 2015
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.9
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.9
I took a 3.5 camalot, #4, #5, and #6 C4, and a #3 and #4 big bro. Used all of it. Didn't need any gear down lower (easy face climbing up to the crack). This was my first experience placing big bros and was fun/good practice! If you are so inclined, you can arm bar most of the climb instead of using the face features on the right, which gives it more of an off-width feel. Left side in works well. Fun! The "walk off" for this is on the opposite side of the wall. From the top of the climb you walk to the climber's right, walk down a few ramps (working your way back to the climber's left) and then chimney down a short section next to Sphincter Quits on the opposite side of Sports Challenge. There are some bail slings on the formation (climber's right after you top out), but the down climb/chimney is casual.

I used a #3, #2, and #1 for the gear anchor at the top. Jan 2, 2013
David Aguasca!
New York
  5.9-
David Aguasca!   New York
  5.9-
I add another vote to the "soft for 5.10" argument. The rock at the top is pretty cool, though, patina-type stuff. Feb 9, 2010
Jed Love
Utah, Wyoming, Colorado
Jed Love   Utah, Wyoming, Colorado
This route is an 8+, and Mainstreet is 5.9. Jan 12, 2008
chrisp
boulder
chrisp   boulder
I would have to agree this thing was a little softly rated. If Mainstreet in Vedauwoo is 10a then this would have to go into the 8+ range due to its short nature and lack of tricky OW moves. I would hate to sandbag anyone though, expect a 10a type workout on this thing regardless of the rating. My number 6 friend was my last piece of gear half way up the route- probably would need big bros on the upper half of the route, but you really arent falling out of it then! Jan 2, 2008
Steven Powers
  5.8+
Steven Powers  
  5.8+
this route seems awfully soft graded for 10a offwidth! Jan 15, 2004
Crotch Robbins  
  5.9
If setting a TR after leading, leave a #4 big-bro up high to help keep the rope out of the crack. Jan 14, 2004