The Lobster
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British PG13
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01415, -116.16906 |
| FA: | (TR) John Bachar and Mike Lechlinski, 1980, FL: Tony Yaniro, 1981 |
| Page Views: | 3,341 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Brad G on Apr 7, 2014 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
The Lobster climbs the thin crack system between Leave it to Beaver and Clean and Jerk. Climb Leave it to Beaver up to the ledge, place a small cam (yellow Alien) in a pocket and traverse left to the start of The Lobster crack. The crux involves thin smearing that's protected by a hard to place micro nut. If the nut rips you'll take a large fall on a bomber medium sized nut lower down. The upper half of the climb is easy and well protected. You probably wouldn't deck on this climb with a good belay but it's still exciting none the less.



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