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Routes in Sports Challenge Rock - East Face

Blue Jean Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Championship Wrestling T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clean and Jerk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cool But Not Too Concerned TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cool but Concerned T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Disco Decoy T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hang and Swing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Leave it to Beaver (aka The Beaver) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lobster, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: (TR) John Bachar and Mike Lechlinski, 1980, FL: Tony Yaniro, 1981
Page Views: 939 total, 21/month
Shared By: Brad Gobright on Apr 7, 2014
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The Lobster climbs the thin crack system between Leave it to Beaver and Clean and Jerk. Climb Leave it to Beaver up to the ledge, place a small cam (yellow Alien) in a pocket and traverse left to the start of The Lobster crack. The crux involves thin smearing that’s protected by a hard to place micro nut. If the nut rips you’ll take a large fall on a bomber medium sized nut lower down. The upper half of the climb is easy and well protected. You probably wouldn’t deck on this climb with a good belay but it’s still exciting none the less.

Location

Just left of Leave it to Beaver.

Protection

Finger to thin hand sized cams, medium nut (#7 hb offset)and a micro nut ( #2 bd micro nut)

Photos

Dick Enberg was free climbed, without the 40' tree, (it was tied back) by Bachar and Lechlinski and is considered 5.12 this way Jan 20, 2015
Randy  
Dick Enberg essentially does NOT exist anymore, since the pine tree has fallen over.

The tree was in declining health for many years and died a couple years back (but was still upright). For a few years, climbing the tree (which was increasingly leaning further from the face) was not really possible. It fell within the last year.

So, the only way of doing this line now is via The Lobster. May 13, 2014
C Miller   CA  
This line is a direct start to another route, Dick Enberg (5.11a), which climbs the tree next to the face before transitioning into the crack proper.

Due to the existing gear at the time the first lead of this route was done using pitons but as Brad notes protects decently with modern gear. Apr 9, 2014