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Routes in Future Games Rock

Bendix Claws, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Continuum T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disappearing Act T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Games Without Frontiers T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hang 'Em High T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Invisibility Lessons T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Invisible Touch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sandblast T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Therapeutic Tyranny T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: John Long, Mike Lechlinkski & Mari Gingery, December 1978
Page Views: 6,815 total, 36/month
Shared By: Mike Kidner on May 13, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the right hand, hand crack of the face, easy climbing to a bulging step left into the crack proper, jam your way to the top. Try not to grin inanely all the up.

Protection

It's all good, cams up to a #2 Camalot. Belay at top is about 0.5-1 Camalot size.
mhagny
  5.9-
mhagny  
  5.9-
For me, this was considerably easier than Continuum. Perhaps only 5.8+. Oct 27, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I don't understand the concept of ratings of routes by being short, having exposure, being thin or wide. Maybe if a crack were just 10' I will pass it up. Why should I care about exposure? Do I climb for the thrill of being high off the ground or for the good climbing movement? Do I suck at thin fingers or thrashing up mean off widths? Smooth or grainy rock? These are just pieces of the overall puzzle that makes climbing fun. Jan 5, 2015
alleyehave
San Diego, CA
  5.9
alleyehave   San Diego, CA
  5.9
Was expecting something more, enjoyed Continuum a lot more, worth doing, but not worth the 4 stars this route gets in all the guidebooks imho... Mar 29, 2014
Drederek
  5.9-
Drederek  
  5.9-
continuum favors big hands, invisibility is better for thin fingers. Hope I cleared things up! Apr 11, 2013
Tradiban
  5.9
Tradiban  
  5.9
caughtinside-ZING! This thing is good but probably too short to be considered classic. I liked Continuum better. Mar 14, 2012
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Are you suggesting that if you fall off a climb before you get gear in, injury is possible? Mar 14, 2012
Simon H
Oakland, CA
  5.9 PG13
Simon H   Oakland, CA
  5.9 PG13
If you blow it in the polished section before the first placement, it would be easy to crack an ankle on the angular, buried blocks. Mar 14, 2012
BrendanC
Sherman oaks, ca
  5.9
BrendanC   Sherman oaks, ca
  5.9
Another great route. The start is intimidating but all there. I think a .5 in the obvious pod/crack at about 10' and you're off. Just a little slick and polished in this section (spotter is key) but it's easier than it looks. Very fun fingers gets you to the roof which looks much harder than it is since it seems like there are zero spots for your left foot on the face once you pull over and commit to the crack. You can get a great piece in to protect this move, pull up and in, put in one more if you want but it's over quickly. Thin hands. Then a big rest and easy glory hands to the top. I thought Continuum was definitely easier. May 9, 2011
Great climb on a busy weekend Apr 22, 2010
Ian G.
PDX, OR
  5.9
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  5.9
I can't believe this route only gets 2.5 stars! The start's a little odd, but the handcrack above is really cool. Feb 27, 2010
DavidHH
Parker, Colorado
  5.9
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
  5.9
I can only assume that this routes name stems from the fact that there ARE small footholds out left which were initially "invisible" to me at first. Great route which seemed harder than 9 to me until this discovery. Apr 24, 2008
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.9
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.9
Nice line, crux is the left leaning thin hands section near the bottom, takes excellent gear at the crux (and just about anywhere else too). Bottom is a little delicate and polished. If you are going to TR this after leading, stop about 15' below the top at a good stance (4th class low angle bomber hands to the top from here) and build your anchor in the double hand cracks (takes anything from #1-#3 camalot size)...this will be much easier on your rope and easier to belay the TR than going all the way over the top. While you've got the rope hung, take a run up the .10c face route just to the right "Disappearing Act". And I agree with the other two, Overseer and Touch and Go are better routes. Nov 21, 2006
I agree with Sirius completely. It is worth doing for the move left at the roof and the 7 feet after that! Oct 18, 2006
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.9
Good route on clean rock 3 stars out of 5. Nice hands crux in the middle gives way to easier terrain to the top. A couple of #3 camalots for the belay. Recommended Mar 13, 2006
nicole
 
nicole  
 
Nice route. I thought it was much easier than Continuum even though it is rated harder. Mar 4, 2006
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
Good route, but maybe overrated. 1.5 out of 3 stars, I thought. Short, not sustained, no exposure. Overseer on Hemmingway is a much, much better line at this grade. Dec 31, 2005
Kayte Knower  
 
WOW WOW WOW. Absolutely grinning all the way to the top, and feeling like a hero because .75 camalot is decent hands for me and this crux protects beautifully. There are a lot of feet on the left wall that ballance you nicely to pull into the crack. I brought doubles from purple to gold, but it's that yummy green cam that you could place five times if you want to. My favorite of this grade at J-tree. Feb 1, 2004
Josh Beck  
 
The crux of this climb is actually the left leaning tight hands. Best to place a piece high then pull into it and make a few moves to get to better hands before the next piece goes in. Then eases off to the top. Not hugely sustained but no gimme. Excellent either way, along with Touch and Go probably the best two < 5.10 cracks in the park in my opinion. Sep 29, 2003
Dynomight510
  5.9
Dynomight510  
  5.9
You need to climb about 10' off the deck to the first pro placement. The moves off the deck and the stance at the first pro placement is powerful and delicate. The next challenge is moving out right into the thin hands crack. The stance here is good and you should be able to place gear in the crack before the next series of moves. The crack angles right and opens a bit to bomber hands. A bit sustained but it's hand crack. If you want to lead a crack that has pro off the deck, go Touch and Go.

Good rock and great crack. Fun moves all the way.

A few sustained sections. Sep 29, 2003
My favorite 5.9 to date at JT. Lots of fun. You need to build your own anchor. Great walk off to the left. While you're in the area, definitely run over to Bird of Fire. Feb 22, 2003
Josh Beck  
 
This is one of the nicest routes I've done in jtree, and one of the nicest moderates that I've done anywhere... excellent and fun all the way on superb rock. Dec 8, 2002
Well, I have to dissagree with Mike's description of the begiining "easy". Of course, you'll have to take my comments with a grain of salt since this was my first 9 trad lead ever, and I wouldn't have tried it except for the fact that it was my last day in J-Tree and I had just finished the 8+ to the left (Continuum). A man who my friend and climbing buddy Mike and I dubbed "Cool James" told me it was more straightforward then the 8+ and since I had lead that, I should definitely lead Invisibility Lessons. It was a little bit of that great encouragement and community that makes this place so special, and I'm glad I did it. But I digress... The start is thin, I sort of side pulled and slightly laid back in the right facing dihedral/ crack up to the big step. It was only until my fourth attempt that I was comfortable enough to be able to get an alien in and continue up. And I guess that was kinda easy compared to the step and then thin hands/ hand crack above. I thought that feet were a bit desperate for my taste while leading at the time, but the pro an the hand jams were good. After about 10 or 15 feet, it opens up to hand crack and then eases considerably. I think a first time 9 trad leader (like I was) can tackle this if you feel comfortable with crack climbing, and you can get up the start. I used a 1 as well as a large (3 or 4) camalot on top for the belay. Lots of options up there. And although I haven't climbed many 9's in the park, I might have to give it a 3 stars... Jul 26, 2002