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Routes in Future Games Rock

Bendix Claws, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Continuum T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disappearing Act T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Games Without Frontiers T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hang 'Em High T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Invisibility Lessons T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Invisible Touch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sandblast T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Therapeutic Tyranny T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mike Lechlinski & Eric Eriksson, March 1986
Page Views: 3,317 total, 21/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The moves past the bolt (5.11a) are technical and cruxy and while the crack above isn't terribly difficult (5.10+), hanging out too long to place gear could take it's toll. Descend by walking off to the climber's left.

Yet another great crack on the Future Games Wall, and one that's perfect after warming up on the easier climbs on the wall. Three stars out of five.

Location

Located 35' left of Continuum, and is easily identified by a single bolt leading into a steep, thin crack.

Protection

bolt (3/8"), pro to 2.5" including wires (they work especially well)
Would love to hear the story behind the name on this one? Dec 9, 2014
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
followed nelson day up this route. this was hard Feb 25, 2014
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11b
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11b
I also found this to be one of the hardest .11a's I have done in the park. I would equate it with hot rocks as well. I passed the bolt no problem. The real meat of the climb begins with the thin overhanging rattly finger cracks with improbable gear. I fell from the stance above the bolt before I could reach to place gear (feet almost to the bad jam which was too large for me to jam). I took a pretty hard fall- about 15 feet, nearly factor 2 I would say. I stopped about 4 feet above my belayer's head, and he sat down as I was falling. Finding a stance to place the first blue alien is strenuous and improbable. I placed the first blue alien above the bolt with full body tension/extension on bad feet (almost to the jam), left hand in a shallow rattly finger crack, and didn't even feel that great about the placement (marginal). I would recommend backing the blue alien up as soon as possible. I placed a green alien about 2 feet higher to the left of the marginal blue alien. Then again, I'm 5'8" on a good day. I agree - this isn't a good "first .11a lead" for a budding .11 climber. The gear is too dicey for that, and the placement stances are strenuous. In total I placed two blue aliens, a black alien, a couple marginal nuts, and two green aliens in the rattly finger crack section. I was pretty stoked when I got a #1 in high on the route. Take a #2 and a #1 for the anchor, and a small-ish nut. I used the crack parallel to the climb and to climber's left and extended the anchor out pretty far (two cordelettes).

Beta: Fun moves and quite sustained climbing through the overhanging rattly fingers. Look around for feet behind you on the left face during the crux to help you place gear. Throughout the climb I kept waiting for a good rest hold that didn't exist. Jan 27, 2014
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Part of what I refer to as the Split Rocks Triple CrownÂ…..

Bird of Fire
Rubicon
Bendix Claws Nov 12, 2013
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
This was one of my first 11 joshua tree onsights so I recommend it on that note. The crack was also harder for me, surprisingly. Extra blue-orange metolius was great to have and made it not too big a deal as far as pro. Although, the first placement after the bolt is pretty tricky.. A real classic in my eyes Nov 11, 2013
just a note, the picture in the joshua tree classics book has this route totally wrong, it shows the line heading way right across the face. Had me confused for a minute. Nov 16, 2012
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
delicate, techy, sequential and sustained, brilliant route. Mar 23, 2011
avk
avk  
yeah, I think it's harder for shorter people. Hard to place the first piece after the bolt (blue alien) and have to do extra moves going from jam to jam/holds. The rest of the gear is great. The climb is super fun! I wouldn't rate it any lower than 11a. It was pretty hard for me; maybe because I'm shorter. Jun 25, 2009
Michael Ybarra
on the road
Michael Ybarra   on the road
I thought the crack was harder (or at least more serious) than the face moves. There's gear but it can be a little tricky and run and the stances aren't great in the middle of the route. There's a Thank God rest at the end of the sustained crack difficulties that I didn't find until after a whip on a small nut. Apr 29, 2009
Drewsky  
Great route. If you're under 5'9" it's a little harder to place the next good piece after the bolt. I'm not sure I would recommend this as a first 5.11 lead, but it is relatively safe. I also hung out with a large lizard while belaying on the top. Perhaps it was one of the aforementioned chuckwallas? Dec 27, 2008
MJW
Boise, ID
MJW   Boise, ID
Outstanding route with loads of good gear. Mostly TCU's and wired's. I was greeted at the top by a giant Chuckwalla 3 feet from my head whilst zoning out at the belay!! I found it barely 11a. Good route for a 5.10 leader to take a stab at. May 4, 2008
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
attempted onsight. past the crux, i fell while trying to clip my first piece after the bolt (blue metolious). i had a bunch of slack out, i almost decked! finished the climb right after w/ no falls. >:0

great climb. four of five stars

darshan Nov 11, 2007
Manjushri
  5.11a/b
Manjushri  
  5.11a/b
Well worth the effort, fun and challenging climbing I truly enjoyed. Do not be deterred by the gear - it takes competence and confidence to place, but for a 5.11 leader it is not incredibly difficult to be safe. Oct 22, 2007
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Never led it and never will, just struggled my way through on TR. But this is fantastic, strenuous climbing on a beautiful aesthetic line! Apr 8, 2007
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11a
TR'd it, with the tech crux coming just past the bolt. A reachy right-hand fist-type jam in a flair was the key to bringing my feet up. After that, sustained, steep crack holds all the way to the top, About 3 stars out of 5 Feb 18, 2006
tom donnelly
san diego
  5.11a
tom donnelly   san diego
  5.11a
I toproped it thinking it would be hard and it felt so good that I then led it. Could rate it 10d. Nov 8, 2005
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
  5.11a
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
  5.11a
What Chris said. The bottom face move requires a little finesse footwork, while the upper crack has very positive jams but is rather sustained. Easy for 5.11, one face move. Apr 25, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
5.11a
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
5.11a
this is a beauty for sure. Moving past the bolt was great and difficult for my average height self. Bit I highly recommend this one when in the area. Cool moves. I might lean more towards 5.11b also. But perhaps it is just a height thing. Oct 3, 2004
Mark J Gain
  5.11b
Mark J Gain  
  5.11b
I agree with the last comment, a great route but just as hard as many of the 5.11b/c's I have climbed in Josh. Pro is funky after bottom bolt but then is good to the top. A real pumper! Aug 13, 2004
Josh Beck
  5.11b
Josh Beck  
  5.11b
This is one of the best routes I've done in jtree in a long time, but I also think it's the hardest ".11a" I've been on out there. As hard for me as Hot Rocks, and definitely harder than Left Ski Track or Red Snapper (just chose those routes because they're the most comparably graded routes I've been on recently). I'd call it .11b, but that's just my opinion and I probably missed something... Mar 26, 2003
Dicey pro and high quality climbing, better be sure you can on-sight route of this grade before attempting this one as a ground-up lead. Eases up near the top as the crack widens. No fixed anchor on top. Mar 13, 2003
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
It's easy to throw a toprope on this one if you're not quite up for leading it. Just scramble up and left (see descent). A few hand-size pieces and a cordalette should be enough. Dec 3, 2002