Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Kris Solem, Jan McCollum & Herb Laeger, 1990
Page Views: 1,804 total · 12/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 13, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This mixed route is in between Bendix Claws to the left and Continuum to the right. A left leaning crack leads to two bolts to a 5.10 crack (that parallels Bendix Claws) with a pin, to a one bolt face finish.


3 bolts, gear to 1.5"


Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
Kristian Solem   Monrovia, CA
I found this climb to be difficult to redpoint, and getting it took several visits after the day when Jan, Herb and I got the bolts in place (ground up by hand of course.)

The moves entering the crux are hard so setting up right for the crux is part of the deal. I finally got it when I used double ropes. I ran one cord for all the pro up to the crux including the fixed pin, then the first clip for the second rope was the crux bolt. This method made the clip easier, and I was able to focus on setting up for the moves and climbing through.

The pin was a point of aid to place the high bolt. I decided to leave it since, for a climber using a single rope, clipping the bolt is hard and the pro below the pin is thin. Mar 17, 2010
I was back on this today (3/7/13) for the first time an a couple of years. Still hard! The reason for this post is to make a few comments:

(1) I think some of the edges around the pin have deteriorated since my last voyage up Hang 'em High. The crux is still the area from the third bolt up to the juggy flakes at top (I'm 5'9" and it seemed like another 2-3 inches of reach would have made a world of difference reaching the good sidepull above the 3rd bolt). However, now the area getting from the pin to the third bolt is (or seemed today--high gravity?) stout as well. Moreover, there are additional holds that are, perhaps, not long for this world. In particular the (thick) potato-chip flake down and left from the pin, which is absolutely crucial for me to get to the third bolt. It is very, very difficult to use some of these holds without exerting outward force. I've got to drive the aforementioned flake below my waist while gastoning to get the bolt, and can't do so without some outward force.

(2) The comments in #1 are significant because the pin is looking pretty dodgy to me. The crack is decent there, but it is the grainy Josh junk in that part of the crack. Add to that that the pin is bent and beginning to show rust, and the whole situation for the placement doesn't inspire, especially given that the moves there seem to have gotten a bit more difficult. There is good pro in the crack below (as Kris says)--I got a nut and a couple of red C3 placements--but the gear is small and some parts of the crack are a bit rotten. If Kris thinks it is a good idea to leave the pin in, perhaps it should be inspected and, possibly, replaced sometime in the not-too-distant future? I won't do it, since I'd prefer that Kris evaluate it and make the call.

This is a stellar route, as I told Kris after I first got on it a few years ago. Really, really, really good. Also, if the upper crux is too hard, a really fun variation is to start Hang 'em High and then transition over to Bendix Claws at the fixed pin--harder this way than Bendix, but still much easier than the finish of Hang 'em High.

Finally, having recently been back on some other 12s in Josh, I do think this might be a bit harder than the 12a/b rating (relative to other 12s in Josh). I'd give it a solid 12 or a 12b/c on Mountain Project's scale which goes 12a, 12-, 12a/b, 12b, 12, 12b/c, 12c... Mar 8, 2013
So Cal, now in Sandy, UT
johannsolo   So Cal, now in Sandy, UT
Time for that pin to go away. Bomber gear about 4 inches below (purple Metolius) and another one 18 inches below (blue Metolius) the pin. The crux is the move off the big underling flake. The moves getting to the big undercling flake are not bad, maybe mid 11 but you would have the bolt clipped by then. Great route. Mar 24, 2014
So Cal, now in Sandy, UT
johannsolo   So Cal, now in Sandy, UT
The pin was removed on Saturday and came out quite easily. It was a very small lost arrow. Bomber gear very close to where the pin was but small and probably not around when this climb was put up. I talked to Matt Beebe about this route and he thought it was around 12c when he tried it years ago. It is hard but so is 12a/b. Apr 6, 2016