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Routes in Future Games Rock

Bendix Claws, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Continuum T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disappearing Act T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Games Without Frontiers T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hang 'Em High T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Invisibility Lessons T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Invisible Touch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sandblast T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Therapeutic Tyranny T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Paul Borne, 1989
Page Views: 2,317 total · 16/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 13, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

About halfway between Invisibility Lessons and Continuum, is this very hard route. Its a 5.13 that isn't overhanging and that should convey a lot. Ultra thin face moves through the initial three bolt section lead to a discontinuous crack finish. The line was originally rap bolted by some Euros back around 85. The bolts disappeared quickly until Paul Borne did it ground up, perfectly situating them for the route.

Protection

3 bolts, gear to 1.5" (mostly thin)

Photos

Drewsky
  5.13a PG13
Drewsky  
  5.13a PG13
Double ropes? Us new-wave climbers have trouble enough managing one... Dec 21, 2012
Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
 
Kristian Solem   Monrovia, CA
 
Susan, The best of all possible worlds is to lead on the doubles with two belayers, one for each cord. The downside is that your beer expenses double... Nov 27, 2012
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
^^
Kris,remind me to not belay you on anything hard with twins. Your bean couldn't take my incompetency for that is certain. Nov 14, 2012
Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
 
Kristian Solem   Monrovia, CA
 
" ...but if it breaks while you're pulling slack to clip you will probably deck..."

This is why I used double ropes. Assuming your belayer is up to speed with the system you can pull slack on one cord to clip while still being properly belayed on the other. Nov 13, 2012
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
This is a pretty cool route, bring your stiffest shoes. Tricky sequences on ultra thin yet fairly positive/sharp holds through the bolts, then some uber-funk getting established in the first crack portion. Slightly runout in the upper half, you'll get good gear (small stoppers) about a body length above the last bolt, then it's a bit run on easier climbing. Small stoppers (#1/#2DMM), yellow tcu, and another cam or nut from tips to .5 camalot should see you through. Good rock, fun and varied climbing, 3/5 stars. Jan 17, 2011
Drewsky
  5.13a PG13
Drewsky  
  5.13a PG13
I crumbled a foothold and almost hit the deck right before the second bolt. It (the foothold) is still there, but if it breaks while you're pulling slack to clip you will probably deck. This is quite the route. Very thin but still there. I previewed the gear and toproped this before leading it; onsighting the top section would be exciting and possibly dangerous if you have less than superior nutting skills. 3.5 to 4 stars out of 5 in my book. Dec 27, 2008