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Routes in Dead Mans Spires

Hermit's Hovel - Mystery Incident T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 PG13
Redemption Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 R
Resurrection Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
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Type: Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Ross Layne Potter
Page Views: 4,216 total · 23/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Oct 15, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Resurrection Spire. 300' III 5.9. C1.

This spire is on the left end (west) of the large spires above the campsite. The central spire also has a route on its north side. It looks a very good line, probably done in the 80s by as yet unknown climbers.

There are several approaches, the easiest is by a stone chute below and right of the three smaller spire formations. Then walk below these smaller spires to the far end and north side of the big spires to Resurrection(one will pass the 80s route up the central spire). Continue to a chimney with a hand crack on its inner wall.

P1) Up the chimney and the hand crack to anchors below a fine slightly overhanging 1" crack. 100' 5.9.(An old failed attempt will be seen about 30' to the right of this pitch)

P2) Follow cracks and grooves to anchors 80' C1. May go free at 5.11+?

P3) Move out left onto a slab, then up right to a steep wall, then left into open groove, (one bolt pro) that leads to the shoulder left of summit. 60' 5.8.

P4) The first step is climbed using three bolts, then continue up second step to a fine summit and register. 60' A0 5.7.

Descend the route via rappel. FA. Paul Ross, Layne Potter. 16th Oct 2003

Protection

Friends:- Three Aliens. Four #.5 Four #1 Four #1.5. Then three of each up to #4. Medium to large stoppers. Easier to rap with two 200' ropes.
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.9 C1
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.9 C1
To get to this Spire . Drive 6.1 miles south from the San Rafeal River bridge to a road on the right (west) with a cattle guard. Go down this for 1 mile . At 6/10 of a mile take right turn .Follow to the Wash then left up the wash for a few miles untill spire formation is seen on the right Oct 12, 2004
This is actually Tibia Tower, first summited in 1989(?) by Dave Lunt and Bert Stolp. The route up the north face is High Road to Tonapah and saw a couple of attempts by Dave, Bert and Scott Lunt (myself) prior to the first ascent. Scott and Steve Walker did second ascent in 1990(?). Sorry for the confusion on years, I am an old fart. The "failed attempt" on Resurrection was actually our first short attempt done in 1988 with Kyle Ricketts. We thought it might take too much bolting so we moved to the lovely dihedral on the north face. Also, Dave and I attempted one of the shorter spires across from Tibia but retreated as I recall due to a storm (or lack of huevos ... my memory is selective). We didn't promote this area because at the time we thought we could keep the San Rafael to ourselves. Times have changed. I can provide more details if people are interested. I think we rated High Road to Tonapah 5.9 A2. The name Tibia Tower comes from an accident that occured when we first "discovered" the area. A large boulder slid down on Dave's ankle while we were scouting, breaking bones with glee.

Scott Lunt Apr 8, 2005
Scott,
I am interested. This kind of background information is one of the best things about this site IMO.

Thanks,
Brad Feb 22, 2007
jun
jun  
How easy is it to protect the first pitch? I'm thinking of going this Saturday to try it and I don't want to get sketched out on the first pitch.

I'm solid on pitches 3 - 4, but i get unnerved chimneying unprotectable sections. Just curious. Oct 2, 2008
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.9 C1
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.9 C1
If you are asking about Resurrection ,the chimney part of first pitch is easy .The 5.8 Pitch 3 has a bit of run out... Oct 3, 2008
The 2nd pitch was freed by Jackson Marvel at 5.12- and the 4th pitch was freed by Paul Robertson at 5.10c (for "choss"). Cool spire. Mar 14, 2016
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.9 C1
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.9 C1
Well done guys ... Impressive..Glad you liked the 5.8 pitch !! Best Wishes from UK Mar 15, 2016
BrentL
Logan, UT
 
BrentL   Logan, UT
 
Great spire. 5.8 pitch enjoyable, but avoid temptation to pull on convenient horizontal crack/block after slab crux, it is ready to go any time. Descent: one short rap back to shoulder, then one double rope rap to ground. Sep 26, 2017
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.9 C1
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.9 C1
Good one BrentL .. Glad you had fun.. I was a young lad of 66 when we did the FA. Sep 26, 2017

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