Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Dead Mans Spires

Hermit's Hovel - Mystery Incident T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 PG13
Redemption Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 R
Resurrection Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Type: Trad, Aid, 85 ft
FA: Ben Folsom and Maura Hahnenberger Nov. 17, 2007
Page Views: 706 total, 6/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Nov 19, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is the obvious crack on the north face of the tower. At the bottom of the route is a bolt in a big block that pulled out from a roof about 30 feet above the ground. I don't know what happened here, but there was no sign of ascent above where that block pulled out, and it looks like whatever happened here during a previous attempt went very, very bad. Climb up some scary loose sections passed a bolt (placed by the previous attempt) without a hanger and continue up the widening crack until you chimney through the tower near the top to reach a two bolt anchor at the summit. There is also a small summit register just above the anchor hidden in a small alcove under some rocks. Most of the route I climbed free, I used two points of aid at the steepest part of the offwidth bulge. The route will go free at 5.10+ or easy 5.11.

Location

When you reach the parking area for the Deadmans Spires, look north and you will see a group of three towers. Hermit's Hovel is the center and tallest of the three. The route climbs the North face of the tower, which is opposite the parking area. For more clarification. If you are looking at Resurrection/Tibia tower, these are the three towers to the right.

Protection

Two sets of cams including larger offwidth sizes. A set of stoppers.

0 Comments