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Routes in Dead Mans Spires

Hermit's Hovel - Mystery Incident T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 PG13
Redemption Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 R
Resurrection Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Type: Trad, Aid, 240 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Stoner & Doug McKee
Page Views: 147 total, 11/month
Shared By: Paul S on Oct 11, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Just left of the center of the north face, take the obvious wide crack that goes nearly to the summit.

P1: Starts on soft rock and slowly becomes steeper and wider until you can fit in the crack. The last 70' or so is physical chimney/squeeze climbing that's without gear unless you have a gold big bro. Gear anchor past the junk ledge in a good hand crack. 200'

P2: Short boulder problem leads to easier climbing to the summit. Short pitch.

Descent is to the climbers right of the line climbed. First rappel is 40' to a ledge. Next is close to 200' to the ground.

Location

Redemption Tower is just right of Tibia tower, or the right most tower of the large group as viewed from the camping area.

Protection

Doubles from .2-#6 camalots. 1 or 2 #4 big bros, #5 big bro, and 9" valley giant.

Photos

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