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Routes in Dead Mans Spires

Hermit's Hovel - Mystery Incident T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 PG13
Redemption Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 R
Resurrection Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
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Type: Trad, Aid, 240 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Stoner & Doug McKee
Page Views: 194 total · 10/month
Shared By: Paul S on Oct 11, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description [Edit]

Just left of the center of the north face, take the obvious wide crack that goes nearly to the summit.

P1: Starts on soft rock and slowly becomes steeper and wider until you can fit in the crack. The last 70' or so is physical chimney/squeeze climbing that's without gear unless you have a gold big bro. Gear anchor past the junk ledge in a good hand crack. 200'

P2: Short boulder problem leads to easier climbing to the summit. Short pitch.

Descent is to the climbers right of the line climbed. First rappel is 40' to a ledge. Next is close to 200' to the ground.

Location [Edit]

Redemption Tower is just right of Tibia tower, or the right most tower of the large group as viewed from the camping area.

Protection [Edit]

Doubles from .2-#6 camalots. 1 or 2 #4 big bros, #5 big bro, and 9" valley giant.

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