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Routes in Dreamspeaker

North Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2
South Face T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
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Type: Trad, Aid, 280 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Ross, Andy Ross, Paul Marshall (UK) 16th Oct. 2002
Page Views: 2,102 total · 11/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Oct 15, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A superb tower one of the best in the desert,and in a magnificent canyon. P1) The first pitch goes up a crack/groove up the wall below the east end of the spire proper. 80' 5.9+ to a ledge and the belay.
P2). Go over the roof and follow good cracks to a ledge. Bolt/rap anchors. 100', 5.9 C2.(5.11b free)
P3). Follow good but awkward cracks to summit. 100', 5.9 C2. (5.10d free)

Descent: Rap to the top of P2 100', and then to the base 180'.

This route may now go all free, pitch 2 will be hard.NOTE> Pitches 2 and 3 freed by Micheal Ferraro in 2009
Nice area, great views, no people.

Protection

Only anchor bolts used. Gear... 3 sets of friends up to #4, two #5, one #6. Full set wires.
Great Site. I used to work in this canyon chasing owls about ten years ago. Had to rap down to the creekbed every morning to tag them then climb back to the ridgeline to RT track them at night. Worked all over SE Utah but this was my favorite site.

Alex Aug 11, 2004
michael ferraro
5.11b C2
michael ferraro  
5.11b C2
I freed the second and third pitches 11-15-08. The second goes at 5.11b and the third goes at 5.10d. Bring a bolt kit to replace rap bolt in a sketchy loose block at the second rap station. Sep 29, 2009
Climbed 3/25/17. Approached by rapping in from the rim a full 70m and making a relatively easy hike over to the base of the route, negotiating a few small, low-angle slabs. Not nearly as hairy as it looks. Takes about 90 mins-2 hours depending on route finding and pace. Rapped on one 70m from summit to top of p2, then rapped to the base of the route with 2 ropes, 1 70 is not enough. Rap anchors could use chain; we added some cord to both and a biner to the top of p2. Bolts are in good shape. Summit is spectacular!! We hiked back out the way we came in, ascending our fixed line, running from an impending rainstorm. Not horrible, but it would be nice to have a static line if that's your plan. Watch for super loose rock at the top of p1 and start of p2.




Mar 26, 2017
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Good One Chaps ... Mar 27, 2017
A spire that tower freaks dream about; so slender and so improbable, not for the faint of heart, you know those "Wingate Princess" types. Please be kind to the Crypto in this beautiful area and tread lightly.
Rack beta was right on, Triples to #3 Camalot, double #4, single #5. Mar 28, 2017
We did the approach from the canyon road, and ended up going up the south facing slopes from the side wash SE of the tower to avoid the thick brush on the north facing slope next to the road, then up ramps below the NE side. About 50 feet below the start of the climb, we encountered an 8-10 foot blank cliff, which required a shoulder stand and sketchy loose mantel. Also found an aider at the base of the climb. Apr 21, 2017
It's worth noting that the start of the second pitch definitely has some heads up scary rock. Nothing really moved on me but it looks like a house of cards. Be gentle and think light thoughts. Apr 12, 2018
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Hi Ben .. The desert rock certainly seems to change as years go by .. I cannot recall any if much loose rock on that pitch ! as you see it was freed in 2008.. Anyway, hope you had fun it is a great looking spire.Glad to see you are still going strong .. I miss the desert .. Apr 12, 2018

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