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Routes in Dreamspeaker
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North Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 |
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South Face T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 280 ft (85 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 37.5723, -109.73531 |
| FA: | Paul Ross, Andy Ross, Paul Marshall (UK) 16th Oct. 2002 |
| Page Views: | 3,868 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Ross on Oct 15, 2002 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
A superb tower one of the best in the desert,and in a magnificent canyon. P1) The first pitch goes up a crack/groove up the wall below the east end of the spire proper. 80' 5.9+ to a ledge and the belay.
P2). Go over the roof and follow good cracks to a ledge. Bolt/rap anchors. 100', 5.9 C2.(5.11b free)
P3). Follow good but awkward cracks to summit. 100', 5.9 C2. (5.10d free)
Descent: Rap to the top of P2 100', and then to the base 180'.
This route may now go all free, pitch 2 will be hard.NOTE> Pitches 2 and 3 freed by Micheal Ferraro in 2009
Nice area, great views, no people.
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