All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Blanding > Arch Canyon > Dreamspeaker

South Face

Name: South Face
Rating: 3.2

5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British R

Routes in Dreamspeaker

	North Face T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C2
	South Face T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

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Type:	Trad, 200 ft (61 m), Grade III
GPS:	37.5723, -109.73531
FA:	Tim Coats, Scott Baxter, Gary Roggera, Mid 80's
Page Views:	1,323 total · 5/month
Shared By:	Andrew Gram on Sep 9, 2002
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.

Description

Very cool route on mostly good rock. The leader should be solid since there are definitely 5.10 do not fall sections, though the 5.11 crux is very safe. The approach is heinous - scramble up slabs on the north side to get to the ledge between Dreamspeaker and Dreamcatcher. The route climbs the obvious splitter in the picture.

Pitch 1 - traverse easily 10 feet right, and head up an overhanging blocky section with less than perfect rock. This is 5.10 and the R section. It used to be protected by a fixed angle, but I pulled it out with my fingers and it is now sitting on my fireplace. Work your way into the well protected splitter which starts out hard 5.11 fingers and eases and widens as you go up. Traverse right to a ledge with an overhang directly above it - sort of cave like. 120' 5.11b.

Pitch 2 - fire over the roof via a burly 4 camalot sized crack. Continue up a gaping offwidth above, and traverse left on somewhat friable rock. Head up through easier cracks to the amazing summit. 90', 5.10+.

Enjoy the spectactular summit. There is a decent anchor where with 60 meter ropes you can make a double rope rap to the ground. There is a station in between, so you may be able to descend with one rope, but I have no idea if it would work or not - easiest to do the double rope rap. There was no summit register when I did this, and you may want to bring webbing to replace the tat on top.

Protection

Lots of cams from small fingers to 4 camalot(the 4 camalot is key). The wide section is hard to protect - maybe try a 5 camalot or 4 big bro. Stoppers if you feel lucky.