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Routes in Dreamspeaker

North Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2
South Face T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
GPS: 37.588, -109.747 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,960 total · 21/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Sep 16, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Description

Dreamspeaker is an impressive skinny tower in Texas Canyon, with one of the finest summits in the desert. The rock quality is mostly good, though the first 40 feet or so is sandy and occasionally loose. The route climbs the south face, and is shady in the morning. The tower is just under 200' high from the pedestal is sits on, but it feels bigger since the pedestal the route starts from is already a few hundred feet up.

The approach is complicated - plan on a full day to do the climb, and it isn't a bad idea to locate your rappel point and familiarize yourself with the canyon the day before.
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Getting There

There are two alternatives to get to the base of this tower. One can drive the very rough four wheel track up Arch Canyon for about 5 miles, or drive in 3.1 miles on the well mantained rim road and descend from there. Here are both approches:

1. Arch Canyon Approach. From Blanding, go south for 2 miles and turn right onto Rt 95. Drive 14.2 miles to a right turn up an open valley. Go 2.5 miles on a good dirt road to where Arch Canyon and the four wheel high clearance starts(ATV recommended). Drive about 5 miles until below and midway between both Dreamspeaker and Dreamcatcher. It takes about 30 mins steep hike/scramble to reach the base of the towers.

2. Rim Approach. This was used on the first ascent of Dreamcatcher. From the turn off south of Blanding onto route 95, drive 19.4 miles (5.2 miles past the valley turn off that leads to the mouth of Arch Canyon) to a road on the right with a large map board and self fee station. Drive 3.1 miles on a car friendly dirt road to good camping area just before where the road has a steep rocky section. From here, walk a short distance northeast to the rim of Arch Canyon and great views of both towers. Follow the rim west for about 20 minutes to where the mesa juts out towards the towers. Not far from the end on the north side, use a fixed 60m rope on a good tree above a wide crack and slab. Rap its length to ledges, and walk down to the right for about a couple of hundred yards and use another fixed line for 100'. Then across to the foot of the towers.

2 Total Climbs

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I freed the north side second and third pitches on 11-15-08. I think the second goes at 5.11b and the third is 5.10d. It is a great route with exelent exposure. Bring a bolt kit to replace super sketch bolt in loose block, on the second rap station. Sep 29, 2009
South Face route is one of the most psychologically accessible climbs in this canyon.

That being said, first ascentionists Toula and Baxter are known for their historical prowess.

A marvelous line to a stunning summit on (mostly) good rock. Jun 24, 2009

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