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Dreamspeaker

Utah > Southeast Utah > Blanding > Arch Canyon
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

Dreamspeaker is an impressive skinny tower in Texas Canyon, with one of the finest summits in the desert. The rock quality is mostly good, though the first 40 feet or so is sandy and occasionally loose. The route climbs the south face, and is shady in the morning. The tower is just under 200' high from the pedestal is sits on, but it feels bigger since the pedestal the route starts from is already a few hundred feet up.

The approach is complicated - plan on a full day to do the climb, and it isn't a bad idea to locate your rappel point and familiarize yourself with the canyon the day before.

Getting There

There are two alternatives to get to the base of this tower. One can drive the very rough four wheel track up Arch Canyon for about 5 miles, or drive in 3.1 miles on the well mantained rim road and descend from there. Here are both approches:

1. Arch Canyon Approach. From Blanding, go south for 2 miles and turn right onto Rt 95. Drive 14.2 miles to a right turn up an open valley. Go 2.5 miles on a good dirt road to where Arch Canyon and the four wheel high clearance starts(ATV recommended). Drive about 5 miles until below and midway between both Dreamspeaker and Dreamcatcher. It takes about 30 mins steep hike/scramble to reach the base of the towers.

2. Rim Approach. This was used on the first ascent of Dreamcatcher. From the turn off south of Blanding onto route 95, drive 19.4 miles (5.2 miles past the valley turn off that leads to the mouth of Arch Canyon) to a road on the right with a large map board and self fee station. Drive 3.1 miles on a car friendly dirt road to good camping area just before where the road has a steep rocky section. From here, walk a short distance northeast to the rim of Arch Canyon and great views of both towers. Follow the rim west for about 20 minutes to where the mesa juts out towards the towers. Not far from the end on the north side, use a fixed 60m rope on a good tree above a wide crack and slab. Rap its length to ledges, and walk down to the right for about a couple of hundred yards and use another fixed line for 100'. Then across to the foot of the towers.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C2
 5
North Face
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 4
South Face
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
North Face
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C2 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
South Face
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dreamspeaker from the canyon rim rappel point.
[Hide Photo] Dreamspeaker from the canyon rim rappel point.
Melissa on one of the best summits around.
[Hide Photo] Melissa on one of the best summits around.
Dreamspeaker from the top of Cream Dream
[Hide Photo] Dreamspeaker from the top of Cream Dream
Incredible!
[Hide Photo] Incredible!
[Hide Photo] untitled
After rapping down the south face from the saddle, we scrambled up the left hand talus line back to the rim.  No need to jug out.
[Hide Photo] After rapping down the south face from the saddle, we scrambled up the left hand talus line back to the rim. No need to jug out.
From the base of the tower at the saddle, it is possible to rap straight down to the ground off of two bolts. Two 70s barely reach.  There are also two drilled angles about 55 meters down if you have shorter ropes.  From here, traverse over to a line of talus that runs all the way to the rim.
[Hide Photo] From the base of the tower at the saddle, it is possible to rap straight down to the ground off of two bolts. Two 70s barely reach. There are also two drilled angles about 55 meters down if you ha…
We fixed a single 70 and rapped off of the North side of the ridge that leads out to the towers.  From here Dreamspeaker is in view.  With a little zig zagging, we were able to traverse to the saddle.
[Hide Photo] We fixed a single 70 and rapped off of the North side of the ridge that leads out to the towers. From here Dreamspeaker is in view. With a little zig zagging, we were able to traverse to the saddle.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] South Face route is one of the most psychologically accessible climbs in this canyon.

That being said, first ascentionists Toula and Baxter are known for their historical prowess.

A marvelous line to a stunning summit on (mostly) good rock. Jun 24, 2009
[Hide Comment] I freed the north side second and third pitches on 11-15-08. I think the second goes at 5.11b and the third is 5.10d. It is a great route with exelent exposure. Bring a bolt kit to replace super sketch bolt in loose block, on the second rap station. Sep 29, 2009