Squeeeeeeeeeeze

All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Thumb Area > Standard Thumb (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

Squeeeeeeeeeeze

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Summit of the Thumb

The Standard Thumb

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5.0 from 1 vote

Carter Johnson

Jul 17, 2025

“Squeeeeeeeeeeze”

1 Comment

Nearby Photos

Descent topo

Alec Finke Climbing the wide section

Showing the walk off descent route from the summit. Easy, safe, and fast. Expect 1.5 hours, summit to car, for your first time down.

Summit of the Thumb

Squeeeeeeeeeeze

The Standard Thumb

Shoulder stand from smooth chimney" April 21 1962 from the Alpenbock Scrapbook. Pitch 7 squeeze chimney

going out for that final anchor at the top

P7 yumminess seen from the bolted anchor. The flexible flake takes gear but will probably break. Chimney a bit higher and throw in a #6 C4 for pushing to the end. Great & proper 5.6 OW.

Cue 'Rocky' Theme

THumb In A Dash

View out from the P8 chimney.

P8 yumminess. There are chockstones to sling deep inside, but it is really a VERY secure squeeze chimney.

If linking P7 & P8, back clean the #6 C4, scramble up and sling the dead tree (still good) and continue on up the chimney! Step right if you want to skip a great part of the pitch.

Jonny Wilson rappelling from the top of the Trough pitch.

Takin off on the off-width

Don't fear the goods!

Wide pitch

Fun start and first crux of P6. Easy hand crack leads to slab & stemming into the left groove, with another jog left before the anchors. The P7 5.7 chimney is on the horizon.

Nice view...

The pitch 8 chimney

The supposed 5.6 squeeze chimney.

Shawn topping out on pitch 2.

Dan heading into the squeeze on pitch two.

P8: I wish the Wasatch had more squeeze chimneys like this! Below is the last slingable chockstone and crux section of the squeeze. Frankly, I think you're better not placing gear and just maintain good squeeze technique. Also, trail your pack & rack!

Trough love

P8: Such a fun chimney! Step back left atop the big chockstone at the end to set up a good anchor.

The easy end to P6, the 'thank god' stance & bolted anchor, and (at last!) good pro. A #3 C4 fits great in the groove, and #2 C4 in the flake. The P7 OW and chimney are above.

Check out this sweet little mishap. My rope decided to snag a bush and hold on tight 50' above the deck on the first rappel. I had to climb back up and free it. There is a new chordelette and locker waiting there as a party gift for the next group.

The final summit bid!

Buried anchor on P2

P7: Your climbing partners have a great view of what is in store for them on the 5.6 OW as you lead it!

P6: If you like thin and sparse gear, with friction rather than jamming in cracks, then this pitch is for you! I was less than thrilled...

Le top!!

Lunch Ledge seen from the end of Indecent Exposure/S-Crack vars. S-Direct continues up the center corner, Standard Thumb comes in from the left, exits right. Might be nicer (but harder) to lieback and slab in the corner to a belay rather than...

Deep in the trough

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