Alec Finke Climbing the wide section

All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwo… > Thumb Area > Standard Thumb (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

Alec Finke Climbing the wide section

ID 114985382 ·

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Summit of the Thumb

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James Buehler

Aug 21, 2018

“Alec Finke Climbing the wide section”

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Summit of the Thumb

Alec Finke Climbing the wide section

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Showing the walk off descent route from the summit. Easy, safe, and fast. Expect 1.5 hours, summit to car, for your first time down.

P7 yumminess seen from the bolted anchor. The flexible flake takes gear but will probably break. Chimney a bit higher and throw in a #6 C4 for pushing to the end. Great & proper 5.6 OW.

THumb In A Dash

Fun start and first crux of P6. Easy hand crack leads to slab & stemming into the left groove, with another jog left before the anchors. The P7 5.7 chimney is on the horizon.

P6: If you like thin and sparse gear, with friction rather than jamming in cracks, then this pitch is for you! I was less than thrilled...

going out for that final anchor at the top

Lunch Ledge seen from the end of Indecent Exposure/S-Crack vars. S-Direct continues up the center corner, Standard Thumb comes in from the left, exits right. Might be nicer (but harder) to lieback and slab in the corner to a belay rather than...

P8 yumminess. There are chockstones to sling deep inside, but it is really a VERY secure squeeze chimney.

Takin off on the off-width

P8: I wish the Wasatch had more squeeze chimneys like this! Below is the last slingable chockstone and crux section of the squeeze. Frankly, I think you're better not placing gear and just maintain good squeeze technique. Also, trail your pack & rack!

P7: Your climbing partners have a great view of what is in store for them on the 5.6 OW as you lead it!

Jonny Wilson rappelling from the top of the Trough pitch.

Le top!!

The final summit bid!

Don't fear the goods!

The easy end to P6, the 'thank god' stance & bolted anchor, and (at last!) good pro. A #3 C4 fits great in the groove, and #2 C4 in the flake. The P7 OW and chimney are above.

Wide pitch

The pitch 8 chimney

Nice view...

If linking P7 & P8, back clean the #6 C4, scramble up and sling the dead tree (still good) and continue on up the chimney! Step right if you want to skip a great part of the pitch.

The supposed 5.6 squeeze chimney.

View out from the P8 chimney.

Trough love

P8: Such a fun chimney! Step back left atop the big chockstone at the end to set up a good anchor.

Dan heading into the squeeze on pitch two.

Shawn topping out on pitch 2.

Deep in the trough

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