The easy end to P6, the 'thank god' stance & bolted anchor, and (at last!) good pro. A #3 C4 fits great in the groove, and #2 C4 in the flake. The P7 OW and chimney are above.

All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Thumb Area > Standard Thumb (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

The easy end to P6, the 'thank god' stance & bolted anchor, and (at last!) good pro. A #3 C4 fits great in the groove, and #2 C4 in the flake. The P7 OW and chimney are above.

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The pitch 8 chimney

P6: If you like thin and sparse gear, with friction rather than jamming in cracks, then this pitch is for you! I was less than thrilled...

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Mark Thomas

Sep 23, 2019

“The easy end to P6, the 'thank god' stance & bolted anchor, and (at last!) good pro. A #3 C4 fits great in the groove, and #2 C4 in the flake. The P7 OW and chimney are above.”

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P7 yumminess seen from the bolted anchor. The flexible flake takes gear but will probably break. Chimney a bit higher and throw in a #6 C4 for pushing to the end. Great & proper 5.6 OW.

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The pitch 8 chimney

The easy end to P6, the 'thank god' stance & bolted anchor, and (at last!) good pro. A #3 C4 fits great in the groove, and #2 C4 in the flake. The P7 OW and chimney are above.

P6: If you like thin and sparse gear, with friction rather than jamming in cracks, then this pitch is for you! I was less than thrilled...

Fun start and first crux of P6. Easy hand crack leads to slab & stemming into the left groove, with another jog left before the anchors. The P7 5.7 chimney is on the horizon.

Lunch Ledge seen from the end of Indecent Exposure/S-Crack vars. S-Direct continues up the center corner, Standard Thumb comes in from the left, exits right. Might be nicer (but harder) to lieback and slab in the corner to a belay rather than...

Jonny Wilson rappelling from the top of the Trough pitch.

P8: I wish the Wasatch had more squeeze chimneys like this! Below is the last slingable chockstone and crux section of the squeeze. Frankly, I think you're better not placing gear and just maintain good squeeze technique. Also, trail your pack & rack!

Wide pitch

P7: Your climbing partners have a great view of what is in store for them on the 5.6 OW as you lead it!

P8 yumminess. There are chockstones to sling deep inside, but it is really a VERY secure squeeze chimney.

Trough love

Le top!!

The final summit bid!

Don't fear the goods!

Takin off on the off-width

If linking P7 & P8, back clean the #6 C4, scramble up and sling the dead tree (still good) and continue on up the chimney! Step right if you want to skip a great part of the pitch.

Dan heading into the squeeze on pitch two.

View out from the P8 chimney.

Shawn topping out on pitch 2.

P8: Such a fun chimney! Step back left atop the big chockstone at the end to set up a good anchor.

"Shoulder stand from smooth chimney" April 21 1962 from the Alpenbock Scrapbook. Pitch 7 squeeze chimney

Check out this sweet little mishap. My rope decided to snag a bush and hold on tight 50' above the deck on the first rappel. I had to climb back up and free it. There is a new chordelette and locker waiting there as a party gift for the next group.

Nice view...

Buried anchor on P2

The supposed 5.6 squeeze chimney.

going out for that final anchor at the top

Deep in the trough